Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/859549
{ SOMMjournal.com } 145 slow approach to the U.S. market, targeting only San Francisco and New York. Now, there's plenty of interest in Japanese whisky. "It's one of the most aggressively thriving categories in the industry," says Mundell. Mundell, a Scotsman with his brogue intact despite residing stateside since 2005, represented the whiskies from his native land until he took his current position in 2011. That's long enough for him to have experienced the inventory shortages that plagued Suntory's Japanese whiskies as demand for it increased. "Out-of-stocks are something the company is taking active measures to avoid with Toki," he reassured the assembly. Last year, Toki debuted in 12 states to the tune of 30,000 cases. To ensure adequate inventory, the brand will gradually roll-out sufficient volumes over the next three years. The historical path that led to the creation of Toki began with Shinjiro Torii's determination to make whisky in Japan. The Suntory founder set out to make the very first Japanese whisky in the early 1920s. Torii started construction of the Yamazaki distillery in 1923, where he pioneered a uniquely Japanese style of whisky better suited to his country's palate and cuisine. The result continues to be a phenomenal success in Japan. Fast-forward to the 21st century and the birth of Toki, an innovative blend that combines unique characteristics from each of Suntory's three distilleries. Toki means "time" in Japanese—a word apropos to a project it took five years to develop—but it has a richer meaning as well. As the Suntory literature explains, Toki also speaks to the idea that "respect for tradition and reinven - tion sparks a powerful creative energy." Mundell explains that idea enthusiastically: "In Scotland, we're all about sticking to tra - dition. In Japan, there's respect for tradition, but they're constantly pushing refinement and innovation, which leads to improve - ment. As a Scot, I find this very exciting." A tasting of Yamazaki 12 Year Old, Chita Heavy Grain and Hakushu 12 Year Old finished whiskies showcased the individual contributions to Toki from the three dis - tilleries. From Yamazaki, the use of various- sized vessels made from American and Spanish oak delivers complexity. The Chita distillery provides viscosity and mouthfeel through its signature heavy grain distillation. Hakushu, the beautiful distillery surrounded by forest, supplies Toki's piney and green apple aromatics. Mundell stresses the importance of the Hakushu distillery's first starring role in a blend. "It's all about the distinctive styles that diversity of produc - tion can provide," he says. "This blending style is very new." Highballs are the rage in Japan, and Suntory is igniting the Highball fever in the U.S. The trick to a superior highball comes down to water and ice. But not just any old water or any old ice. A tasting of mineral waters revealed how four decidedly distinct waters would affect the ultimate flavor. Mundell says chilling is "critical," but advises to avoid using regular bar ice in the Toki Highball. "Ice breaks down carbonation, and carbonation is the delivery system for aromatics," he explains. The pristine block ice used in the seminar may not be easily available, so the alternative, he says, is to chill all the ingredients very well. Suntory Whisky Single Malt & Blended Japanese Whisky, 43% Alc./Vol. ©2017 Beam Suntory Import Co., Chicago, IL. San Francisco bartender Phillip Kim examines the viscosity of Japanese whisky. Toki takes its place among the Suntory whiskies from the Yamazaki, Chita and Hakushu distilleries. San Francisco bartender Phillip Kim examines the viscosity of Japanese whisky. An atomizer of fresh apricots for the Toki Highball, prepared by Beam Suntory Japanese Whisky Ambassador Mundell.