Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/859549
142 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 Much like the long-nurtured relationship between Joel Peterson and Gary Sitton, Ravenswood also lovingly maintains its ties with more than 100 independent grape growers in some of Northern California's most treasured growing regions. The apex of these efforts can be enjoyed by tasting through the Ravenswood Single Vineyard Designate portfolio. Each vineyard offers a very particular slice of terroir, and a lot of them, great history. All of the vineyards are greatly loved, but here are few that are exceptional, espe - cially for their old-vine Zinfandel. —Jessie Birschbach PHOTO: COURTESY OF RAVENSWOOD WINERY SINGLE VINEYARD DESIGNATES Early on in his career, Sitton had an "aha" moment while tasting site-specific wines with Peterson. "I was tasting wines from the same grape, same winemaker, same winemaking program, but from different vineyard sites, and each wine was so different from the next." He goes on to explain, "Each vineyard has its own microbiological fingerprint of yeast and bacteria—like San Francisco's unique sourdough. We do native malolactic fermentation in the barrel, and use the same mix of coopers with limited new oak, so that the difference you're tasting in the wines is driven by the vineyards." This vineyard-focused approach creates wines that are full of personality that can be traced across vintages. Ravenswood's unapologetic motto, "No Wimpy Wines," can call to mind overly ripe, jammy wines, but Sitton explains that balance is always the end goal. By timing the harvest to pick the grapes just ripe, not over-ripe, allows for the grapes' natural acidity to bring freshness in young wines, but also the ability to age over time. "When I got here, I thought Zin wouldn't age well, but the natural acidity helps preserve it over time," Sitton explains. To prove his point, Sitton opened a 2007 Old Hill Vineyard Zinfandel for us to taste, sourced from a single vineyard in Sonoma Valley, planted in 1882 and farmed organi - cally. This ten-year-old Zinfandel was full- bodied, plush and beautifully balanced, with sultry berry notes mingling with spearmint and fennel, tobacco and mocha. A delicious, non-wimpy wine. Looking back over his career at Ravenswood, Sitton reflects, "You don't ever stop try- ing to get better. We look at grain tightness and toasting of our barrels, grape handling and receiving, skin contact, and more. But by and large, years of experience have just reinforced my commitment to the way we have made wines historically. Joel gave us the vision for what Ravenswood is, how we make our wine. We believe in Joel's vision and that's why we work here. We are all doing what we love." When not in the cellar, vineyard, or with his 11-year-old son and 7-year-old daughter, Sitton loves to fly fish and do CrossFit. When asked if the Ravenswood spirit has taken root in him, he admits to wearing a cowboy hat in the fields, but not in the winery. That is one trademark that belongs squarely to the Godfather of Zin. "Joel Peterson gave us the vision for what Ravenswood is, how we make our wine," says Gary Sitton. PHOTO: COURTESY OF RAVENSWOOD WINERY Ravenswood's unapologetic motto calls for "No Wimpy Wines."