The SOMM Journal

August / September 2017

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138 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2017 WINES FROM THE RHÔNE AND PROVENCE With vintage reports indicating that 2015 is the best vintage for the Northern Rhône since the early 1960s, Delas Frères is uniquely positioned to capture the limelight across its portfolio. Sourced from a 25-acre plot in Les Bessards, so named for its pure, granitic soils, the 2015 Hermitage Les Bessards is positioned as the jewel in the Delas crown. Crafted by winemaker Jacques Grange, this is Syrah grown on granite at its finest with aromas of violets, lavender and crushed stone. Full of dark berries, it's extracted and powerful, yet balanced with characteristi - cally dense tannins. Despite the long, hot and dry growing season, cooler temperatures in the evening resulted in a restrained 14% alcohol for Les Bessards. Conditions were similar throughout the Rhône Valley, with the Delas Côtes-du- Rhône St. Esprit Rouge, made from 60% Syrah and 40% Grenache sourced from the Ardèche region, showing a "Southern-style" vintage rich in color and silky tannins. Syrah shone and Grenache faired particularly well, with even ripeness and good stem lignification making the entry-level wines even more appealing for their varietal expression and weight. Further south in Provence, Domaine Ott has introduced BY.OTT, a charming new rosé made by the fourth- generation winemaking team of cousins Jean-François Ott and Christian Ott. The blend of 75% Grenache, 25% Cinsault and Syrah is sourced from the estate vineyards of Château de Selle and nearby Clos Mireille and made in the new dedicated cellars at Château de Selle. Exuberant with strawberries, tropical and stone fruit, there's a whisper of sweet brown spice that seems to be found in all the wines of Domaine Ott. The 2016 BY.OTT Côtes de Provence Rosé is a reflection of the terraced limestone slopes and pink-hued soils of gypsum, red clay, dolomite and sand - stone of of Château de Selle. Facing the sea, the young vines at Clos Mireille are planted to schist and benefit from the moderating influence of the coast. With each estate producing a signature rosé there are plenty of styles to choose from. Of them, the Château de Selle 2016 showed the most intensity, minerality and finesse. WINES FROM PORTUGAL The dry wines of Portugal's Douro Valley con- tinue to gain traction with imports to the U.S. of dry still wine from Portugal up 34% over the first quarter in 2016. Consumers have discovered the generous weight, dark fruit and oak influence they enjoy in New World blends hailing from this extreme winegrowing region of the Iberian Peninsula. Pioneers of dry red wine production in the Douro, Ramos Pinto sources 2013 Duas Quintas Reserva from two iconic estates— Ervamoira and Bons Ares—in the Douro Superior. A combination of traditional and modern winemaking gets the best out of this blend of three indigenous varieties: 66% Touriga Nacional, 21% Touriga Franca and 13%Tinta Barca. At Ervamoira, grapes are crushed by robotic plungers and fermented in open granite lagares, while at Bons Ares, wine - makers prefer long maceration in wood vats and concrete tanks. Cool spring temperatures during the 2013 vintage in the Douro resulted in smaller berry size and a higher skin-to-pulp ratio that translates directly in to more color and tannin from these intensely black indig - enous varieties. The 2013 Duas Quintas Reserva shows classic floral notes from Tinta Franca, black fruits and notes of esteva, a resinous bush that serves as a marker for wines of the Douro. With vigor severely limited by schist soils and steep aspects, winegrowing in the Douro is never easy but its rewards are par - ticularly savory. Ana Rato of Ramos Pinto. Christophe Renard of Domaine Ott, which produces some of the most prestigious wines from the French Riviera. Newly introduced BY.OTT features wines from select vineyards in the Côtes de Provence, produced at the winery's Château de Selle estate. PHOTO: CAL BINGHAM { showcase } PHOTO: CAL BINGHAM

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