The SOMM Journal

August / September 2017

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  127 WASHINGTON, D.C. photos by Cameron Whitman Pastries and Prosecco As students filtered into the long, rectangular conference room of the Dupont Circle Hotel at 9 a.m., Banfi's Leicht intercepted those headed to the bountiful table of pastries and coffee to place glasses of Prosecco into willing hands. I watched more than one experienced somm raise an eyebrow at the first sip, then take a closer look at the bell-shaped bottle. This wasn't just a DOC Prosecco or even a Prosecco Treviso DOC–– this was Maschio dei Cavalieri 2015 Rive di Colbertaldo Prosecco from the Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG, made from 100 percent Glera grown in an area of steep south-facing hillsides between the small communes of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene—spe - cifically, from one of the 43 prized and name-designated hillsides, or rive, Rive di Colbertaldo. Digging In: Celebrating the Unique Terroirs of La Bella Italia In an exploration of Italy's dizzying array of terroir, students "visited" the Toscana, Veneto, Piemonte, Lazio and Abruzzo regions via nine wines and the experiences of five winemakers. Christian Zulian, Director of Bolla, pointed to a small area on a projected map while Leicht translated into the microphone: "Most agree that the best vineyards are in the classical part of the Soave zone. But all agree that the best Soave is grown in the volcanic hills around the Soave village." Students kicked off the seminar by being some of the first Americans to taste the Bolla 2016 Soave Classico 883, bottled just a few weeks prior. While they did so, four examples of Soave soils (bravely smuggled into the country) made their way around the room. The lighter soils, such as the chalk-colored calcareous variety, are used in creating a straightforward Soave, while Garganega grapes grown in the dark, volcanic soils within the Soave Classico DOC can make spicy, complex, age-worthy Soave. Also translated by Leicht, a feisty Alberto Lazzarino, Directing Winemaker at Banfi Piemonte, illuminated a glass of Banfi Piemonte 2016 Principessa Gavia Gavi in the projector's light. "We're situated in the southern part of Piedmont, just at the foot of the Ligurian Apennine Mountains," he said. "The lowest vineyards are at about 200 meters (600 feet) above sea level, and this where most of our grapes are grown. What this does is assure great temperature variation between cool nights and warm days. We also get a little bit of sea influence from the Ligurian, about 40 kilometers away as the crow flies. Lazzarino would appear later during the seminar to present the youthful, fruity Banfi Piemonte 2015 l'Ardi Dolcetto d'Acqui. "The thing about Dolcetto is that if you plant it in the wrong soils, the berries will never ripen and actually fall off the vine. It's fundamental to have the right soils for it; ideally, a heavier clay," he said. The wine comes from vineyards in the center of Acqui, which contain calcareous soil mixed with clay. Cerulli, family proprietor of Cerulli Spinozzi, thanked attendees before saying, "But you should be thanking me because I'm missing this . . ." The slideshow pictured a dish that looked Greeted with DOCG Prosecco: Lars Leicht hands a glass of Maschio dei Cavalieri Prosecco to a grateful somm/student. A Student's Review "The speakers and wines provided a super virtual tour of Italy from northeast (Veneto) to southwest (Sicily). It was a great opportunity to taste and hear about the wines firsthand from the passionate winemakers. One of the high - lights of the day was the "Build a Brunello" seminar. It was a unique opportunity to taste and under- stand the differences imparted on the Sangiovese by different terroirs, even on the same estate. Banfi's clonal and zonation research is fascinating to hear about." — Paul Chaconas, Senior Consultant, Liquor Stores North America, Norwalk, CT IMG: paul Banfi's Lucianio Castiello pours for Paul Chaconas and CW Kelley III, Sommelier, The Watergate Hotel in Washington, D.C. A gradation of Soave soils.

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