The Tasting Panel magazine

August 2017

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august 2017  /  the tasting panel  /  71 For recipe inspirations visit St-Elder.com | @DrinkStElder ©2017 Produced & Bottled By St. Elder, Ltd., boston, MA. 20% Alc/Vol (40 Proof) PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY. ripen your cocktail EXQUISITE CHAMPAGNES FROM VILMART & CIE CONSIDERED ONE OF THE GREATEST GROWER CHAMPAGNES, Vilmart & Cie dates back to 1890, when it was founded by Désiré Vilmart, a récoltant-manipulant making Champagne exclusively from estate-owned vines. Since 1994, the estate has been in the hands of fifth-generation family member Laurent Champs. In 1990, René, Laurent's father, collaborated with him for the last time, then handed the keys to Laurent for him to take over the House of Vilmart in 1994. The majority of Vilmart's 11 hectares (27 acres) of vines lie in Rilly-la-Montagne, with a few plots just over the border in the neighboring village of Villers-Allerand. Since assuming control of the estate, Champs has never used herbicides or chemical fertilizers. He does use oak, which adds vanilla creaminess. Champs is adamantly a vintner first and foremost: "I do wine first, Champagne afterward," he says. His technique is refined, and the resulting wines are stylish and precise. I recently tasted through some current and past vintages of these painstakingly crafted Champagnes and came away a huge fan. Grower Pains 93 Vilmart & Cie NV Brut Rosé, Cuvée Rubis Premier Cru ($95) Pale rose color ; tangy and racy; juicy, bright and long. 90% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay. 93 Vilmart & Cie 2010 Brut Rosé Grand Cellier Rubis ($160) Smooth with strawberry fruit; racy and tangy; crisp; fresh and rich. 60% Pinot Noir, 40%Chardonnay. 93 Vilmart & Cie 1997 Brut Cuvée Création Vanilla toast; nose bursting with flavor. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. 97 Vilmart & Cie 1990 Brut Grand Cellier d'Or Premier Cru Deep golden color ; toasty, yeasty nose; rich with elegance and creamy texture; stunning; deep; an amazing experience. 80% Chardonny, 20% Pinot Noir. 95 Vilmart & Cie 2005 Brut Grand Cellier d'Or Premier Cru Lush, elegant; rich and balanced; deep; creamy; juicy and precise; tropical. 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. 92 Vilmart & Cie 2007 Brut Champagne Coeur de Cuvée ($160) Rich and crisp; ripe and juicy; toasted, fresh; balanced and linear. 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir. 93 Vilmart & Cie 2011 Brut Grand Cellier d'Or Premier Cru ($100) Smooth, elegant and rich; lush, crisp and toasty with precise flavors; fresh and racy; lively and balanced; long and juicy with a bright lovely finish. 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir. 95 Vilmart & Cie 2006 Brut Champagne Coeur de Cuvée ($405/magnum) Juicy; tangy, and racy with orange; lovely texture; toasty, rich and rounded; showing tension and precision. 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir. 94 Vilmart & Cie 2008 Brut Champagne Coeur de Cuvée ($160) Pure and racy; juicy and crisp; toasty, elegant; smooth and lovely; ripe, full; dense and long. 80% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir. Note: The Vilmart & Cie NV Brut Grand Cellier Premier Cru will be reviewed in the September issue. SKURNIK WINES

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