Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/844641
Citra 2010 Caroso, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva DOP, Italy ($22) Startling acidity is the bandleader. Dates, bright cinnamon, cherry and balsamic go to an earthy core. Spiced red floral notes on the finish add an intensity of flavor. 90 PALM BAY INTERNATIONAL Penfolds 2015 Max's Shiraz- Cabernet, South Australia ($25) This wine is named for former Penfolds winemaker Max Schubert, who from 1948 to 1975 was instrumental in developing the winery's great reputation. This deep magenta– hued blend of 70% Shiraz and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon starts with a nose of blackberry and powdered earth. White pepper graces inky espresso structure, inching its way through bold notes of plum and beetroot. Violets chime in mid-palate, while a meaty grilled sensation is spiced to the "max" on the finish. 93 TREASURY WINE ESTATES Stephen Ross Wine Cellars 2015 Pinot Noir, Edna Valley ($36) This is planted on the estate's Stone Corral Vineyard, on a rolling hillside in cool-climate Edna Valley. The spices lift the senses with aromas of lightly chili- powdered strawberries. The billowy texture on the palate plumps in puffs of rhubarb and tarragon. 90 Ron Rubin 2014 Pinot Noir, Gunsalus Vineyard, Green Valley of Russian River ($38) An Earth Mother from the start, with meaty notes of mushroom that interweave with cherrywood on the nose. Raisin-bread cinnamon toast continues on the palate, with Italian herbs and a cranberry middle, rustic and juicy. 89 RUBIN FAMILY OF WINES Rendarrio Vineyards 2014 The Rocker Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Ranch Vineyard, Templeton Gap, Paso Robles ($40) Black- carmine-hued, rich and powerful is the way of Rendarrio. The nose is broad and the fruit, although forward, is backed up by leather and herbes de Provence. Black cherry is juicy. While there is some restraint in this youthful workhorse, we find an androgynous nature of Earth Mother meets X-Men hero. 93 Allegretto 2013 Ayres Family Reserve Tannat, Bella Colina Vineyard, Paso Robles ($48) Hotel entrepreneur Doug Ayres opened the enchanting Allegretto Hotel & Resort in Paso Robles almost two years ago, and now he can add winery proprietor to his résumé. The red fruit, spicy but fresh, exhibits the bold tannins this grape is expected to produce. Armed with Old World acidity and dark savory notes of cinnamon, licorice and olives, this is a thinking person's red. Take your time to have it open up—and up—discovering its hidden shadows and bright spots. 94 ALLEGRETTO VINEYARDS & WINES Jordan 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma County ($55) Open and lush, this is a statement of elegance unfolding. Red fruit morphs to dark, and balance is evident. This is one of the more light-hearted vintages for this expressive red. Drinking now is praiseworthy, but age- ability is clearly marked for future pleasure. 95 B. R. Cohn 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Olive Hill Estate Vineyards, Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County ($58) A virile red, with aromas of espresso bean, anise and root vegetables. On the palate, unique flavors from black beans to cherry-graphite are attention- getters. Firm, chewy tannins give way to an underscore of cigar leaf, blackberry and black olives, with cedar-laced mocha cream for glorious texture. 94 VINTAGE WINE ESTATES SPIRITS Knockmore Irish Whiskey, Ireland ($30) With a light golden color and a soft-spoken nose of tart green apples and grassy springtime hillsides, this 80-proofer has an air of vibrancy to it. Aged in flame- charred bourbon casks, the liquid's texture swathes the tongue with a husky taste of wood and roasted cashews while sun- drenched peach flavors line the mouth. The lean, caramel finish is dotted with white pepper. 96 SOUTHWEST SPIRITS Copper & Kings Butchertown Reserve Casks Brandy, Kentucky, USA ($60) According to the label of this 124-proof spirit, Louisville's Butchertown is the home of "butchers, brawlers, bakers and brewers, artists and artisans, orphans and everything in between since 1796." The full- throttle nose offers up scents of a flower garden, with dripping, juicy honeyed apricot nectar drizzled on the petals. Power-punching the palate is a lineup of saddle leather, orange peel, roasted nuts and spiced, vanilla wafers with an off-dry finish. 93 COPPER & KINGS DISTILLERY 80 / the tasting panel / july 2017 Publisher's PICKS