Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/844641
july 2017 / the tasting panel / 61 W ines, like hemlines, are subject to the whims of fashion—such is the case with American Chardonnay. In the 1980s, consumers embraced it for its fruit-filled opulence. Robed in butter and inlaid with toast and vanilla, this was the style that defined California Chardonnay, one the nation happily sipped poolside as a glitzy cocktail wine. A decade later, Chardonnay suffered an identity crisis of sorts. The ABC ("any- thing but Chardonnay") backlash struck a chord with those in the wine trade and simmered for another ten years until it finally sparked a grassroots movement known as "in pursuit of balance" (IPOB). Led by Rajat Parr and Jasmine Hirsch, IPOB sought to bring refinement to California's low-acid leviathans. At its zenith, the movement served as a platform for a national dialogue. Among winemak- ers and tastemakers alike, oaky-buttery Chardonnay would, at last, be supplanted by leaner, more terroir-driven renditions of the varietal. Through all of this, Chardonnay remained America's darling. The outward ripples from IPOB helped to usher in a new wave—a Chardonnay Renaissance that embraced fruit but insisted on acidity. Malo and oak were acceptable, so long as the finished product was balanced. In this brave new world, the crisp, unoaked Chablis-like Chardonnay could happily, at least in theory, co-exist with its more voluptuous and tropical cousin. As industry professionals wrangled with the very soul of Chardonnay—what it ought to be, consumers, many of whom had stayed loyal to old-school California Chardonnay, felt left behind. All of this stylistic shifting left the average wine buyer with few clues about which sort of Chardonnay she might find in any bottle. In a sea of labels, the newly launched Notable Wines hopes to provide the answer. "The inspiration for Notable came from wanting to give consumers certainty in how a wine is going to taste before buying, empowering them to make a good choice for their own taste," says Director of Marketing Paige Guzman. "Packaging is really evolving, and we're competing for such limited consumer attention. We realized that we could give Chardonnay lovers more useful information, like the wine's flavor notes, on the front label and no longer bury this on back-label copy." In helping consumers identify what they like about Chardonnay—whether they're "oakaphiles or oakaphobes," as Guzman affectionately calls them—salespeople learn to understand their clients' taste. "One thing we turned on its head is not selling these wines by their appellation," she says. "What's most important for shoppers to know is what they like to drink, rather than getting hung up on geography and memorizing details. If you like the flavors on the front label, there's a Notable wine for you." There are two Notable Chardonnays, and both are accessible, with an easy generosity of spirit. Aged nine months in French oak with lees contact, the Oaky & Buttery version is made with fruit sourced from California. Overflowing with caramel, praline, bruised pear and lemon drop, it's equally graced with orchard fruit at the core that neatly folds into moderate toast and lemon pith. It's a silky wine of moderate weight, with lushness and acidity in equal measure. Contrasting this is Notable's Fruity & Crisp label. Here the tempo speeds up. A kiss of Sémillon, Chenin Blanc and Colombard (totaling just 9 percent) from South Eastern Australia imparts green apple, crisp d'Anjou pear and melon, enliv- ened by citrus and delicate floral notes. It's as welcoming as its aureate counterpart, but with more lightness and acidic lift. "We've worked hard to simplify this brand for consumers," Guzman notes. "Chardonnay is such a polarizing vari- etal—just about everyone has heard 'ABC' anecdotally. They may not even realize there's another side to the taste profile, so we're trying to educate consumers about which style they prefer. Notable's develop- ment is rooted in consumer insight from extensive research. We want to arm our audience with what they need; we want to make their jobs easier, while giving the consumer a better experience. Notable is the first wine we're aware of with the flavor profile on the front label." And buyers can expect to see more Notable wines making their debut. "We chose to launch with these two wines because Chardonnay is the number-one- selling varietal in the U.S., with a range of taste profiles. Our long-term endeavor is to launch multiple varietals," Guzman confides. Sounds as though Notable's shelf-worthy Chardonnay duet will soon become an ensemble. Notable has a Chardonnay for your guest, whether they are an "oakaphile" or an "oakaphobe." The "Oaky & Buttery" version is made with fruit sourced from California, while the "Fruity & Crisp" expression is made with fruit from South Eastern Australia, a kiss of Sémillon, Chenin Blanc and Colombard.