The SOMM Journal

June / July 2017

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86 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } JUNE/JULY 2017 becoming a marinade," explained assistant winemaker Molly Lonborg. The modern gravity-flow production facility alongside the historic Victorian home on the property creates a nice coun - terbalance. With a focus on sustainability and quality, the winemaking team exuded pride and happiness with their undertaking. Parrish Family Vineyard, Adelaida District Grower and winemaker David Parrish explained that Parrish Family Vineyard has a long growing history dating back to 1927 when his grandfather, viticulturist Earl Henderson, planted 540 acres of vines in Atascadero. When Parrish graduated from the University of California, Davis, he worked on an experimental trellising project which launched his career installing vineyards all over the world. Parrish's home ranch vineyard in the Creston District was planted in 1995. His experience with those vines facilitated his approach to their more recent plant - ing in the Adelaida District, which sits on calcareous soils and is planted primarily to Cabernet Sauvignon. One key change was "breaking up the blocks so nothing is har- vested together," explained Parrish. "Before you had longer rows and some parts just weren't ripe enough." The 30-acre vineyard was mapped using infrared technology and divided into 16 different blocks based on soils, aspect and sun exposure. The 2016 Sauvignon Blanc was the first vintage for the new proper ty; it was tar t and a refreshing preparation to the reds later in the day. We also tried a barrel sample of the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon— inky, blackberry and quite tannic, which is typical for this sub-AVA and the young age of the wine. When asked what makes Paso Robles special for Cabernet Sauvignon, Parrish said, "I think it's the terroir ; it's the soil with high calcium content and great weather—cool nights, warm days. It really is the terroir." JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery, Adelaida District Justin Baldwin established JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery in 1981 when there were just eight wineries in the area. Blending is the backbone of the winemak- ing philosophy at JUSTIN; they farm 900 acres of vineyards and purchase from up to 25 growers throughout the Paso Robles AVA. Fermenting and barrel-aging the lots separately gives them great flexibility in creating their final wines, many of which have found cult followings and must deliver a similarly styled, quality wine annually. Isoceles, the winery's flagship wine, is so named for its blend of the three noblest Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The 2014 Isoceles displayed red currant, cassis, purple plum and graphite; "wow" acidity; oak still sitting on top but easy to see integrating; grippy tannins. Calcareous Vineyard, Adelaida District Located one mile west of the city of Paso Robles, the 442-acre estate is planted on solid calcareous soils at roughly 1,800 feet in elevation. Lloyd Messer and his daughter, Dana Brown, worked with local winemaker John Munch to find the ideal property and bottled their first wine in 1999. Messer passed away suddenly in 2006 before the winery and tasting room were built. His daughters, Dana and Ericka, continue to carry out his vision for the property. The Cabernet Sauvignons from the estate were opaque and concentrated with fruit-driven cassis and black plum flavors, yet the highlight for our group was the 2010 York Mountain AVA Cabernet Sauvignon from the Carver Vineyard located eight miles west, just outside the Paso Robles AVA. The older vintage was quite vibrant and displayed classic Cabernet Sauvignon characteristics with a dark, silky texture and meaty, smoked venison notes. The 1989 Cabernet Sauvignon, from the Estrella Vineyard, made by former winemaker John Munch, highlighted the age-worthy poten- tial of Paso Robles Cabernets. The nose showed the age of the wine far more than the palate, which was lively in flavor and texture while still maintaining firm tannin structure. The sleek new label for Adelaida, the 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon pictured here, reflects the regal nature of the wine. The Parrish Family Vineyard Clone 6 Cabernet Sauvignon demonstrates Paso Robles terroir.

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