The SOMM Journal

June / July 2017

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Page 45 of 124

{ } 45 white soy vinaigrette and puffed grains on the table in the center of the room. Sepia's genial and thoughtful Beverage Director also put together a few more matches made in Midwestern heaven using Sepia fare and Provençal rosé. Out of left field (Wrigley's left field in this case), but an undeniable partnership none the less, was the Italian beef sandwich and the Château La Lieue 2016 Rosé Cuvée Tradition from the Coteaux Varois en Provence. Says Hon, "Meat and vegetables, especially for lunch - time, are perfect for rosé, so I thought it would be fun to do an Italian beef sandwich with giardiniera [an Italian relish of pickled vegetable] so you have that kind of sweet and sour with a little bit of spice to comple- ment the spice in the rosé. The meat is shaved very thinly, so you have the richness, but texturally it's not very heavy—and all of those fit into the flavor gamut where rosé will work really well because of the slight skin contact. Château La Lieue is coming from the Var, so you're further inland; it's mostly limestone surrounded by mountain ranges. It's a very interesting microclimate there and very different from the rest of the region. You truly get that diurnal shift that provides that higher acid that I find in this wine in particular." Also featured at Sepia is the Spanish fish escabeche with the Côtes de Provence Château du Carrubier 2016 Cuvée Ingénue from la Londe. Says Hon, "When I think of the rosé coming from La Londe, I think of passion fruit, raspberry, white raspberry and maybe herbal-sweet complements as well. The acid doesn't jump out as much as, say, wines coming from the Var, but here what you have is a softer, creamy texture with a very beautiful overall feel, with that tannin-and-texture finish. I think it will go really well with the fish." In addition to sampling wines from La Londe and the Coteaux Varois en Provence, industry guests sampled from other regions as well. Roughly 40 wines, arranged by appellation and also accord - ing to imported/non-imported, lined the perimeter of the private dining room at Sepia. Appellations showcased included of course the Côtes de Provence and even a few from its terroir designations: Fréjus, La Londe, Pierrefeu and Sainte-Victoire, along with a few other Provençal appellations, such as Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence and Coteaux Varois en Provence. Toward the end of the event, The Somm Journal caught up with Amy L. Lutchen, Wine Director at Del Frisco's Double Eagle Steak House, and John Cressman, Wine and Beverage Director of Marchesa. Said Lutchen, "The [Chateau Gassier 2016] Le Pas du Moine is amazing. I was there visiting in June of 2015; it was beautiful there. The wine has beautiful aromatics and a savory palate. I also love the [Maison Saint Aix 2016] AIX; we pour it by the glass at Del Frisco's. AIX is also a beautiful savory rosé as well." Said Cressman, "I learned something today. I thought I would be able to tell which one I like according to the color— not a chance! So many I loved, so I now know not to judge a rosé by its color . . . As far as food, I think of these rosés like Champagne— you can run them through the whole meal. They can go with anything!" The Italian beef sandwich and the Château La Lieue 2016 Rosé Cuvée Tradition at Sepia in Chicago. Spanish fish escabeche and the Château du Carrubier 2016 Cuvée Ingénue at Sepia in Chicago. Amy L. Lutchen, Wine Director at Del Frisco's, and John Cressman, Wine and Beverage Director of Marchesa, perusing the Vins de Provence rosé selections. Anika Ellison, Sommelier at Spiaggia, quietly tasting through the Provençal rosé lineup.

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