The Tasting Panel magazine

May 2017

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may 2017  /  the tasting panel  /  55 Gnarly Head's Old Vine Zin makes a perfect pairing with Raichlen's peppercorn baby back ribs with bourbon-maple glaze. What inspired your recipes? Everything. The meat. The fuel. The fire. Above all travel. I spend six months a year traveling the world's barbecue trail in search of new ideas. The gorgonzola cheeseburgers are a mash up of traditional Italian flavors (gorgonzola, balsamic vinegar, Italian sausage) and the iconic American hamburger. The baby back ribs reflect my New England roots (I was restaurant critic for Boston Magazine for ten years, and I still spend half the year in New England). Vanillin is a naturally occurring flavor com- ponent in oak—and you often sense it in the wine. I thought vanilla would make an unexpected but interesting addition to the sweet bourbon-maple syrup glaze for the baby back ribs. Also, Gnarly Head has been sponsoring a rib recipe contest going on nine years now—so it's a perfect pairing. American barbecue and wine isn't typically the first combination that comes to mind when thinking about pairings. Why do you think that this is? It may be (somewhat) unusual in the U.S., but if you think of some of the world's great grill cultures—Italy, Spain, Argentina, not to mention California—these lie squarely in some of the world's greatest wine regions. Wine is the beverage of choice when you're eating Italian bistecca alla fiorentina, Spanish chuletón and Argentinean asado. Americans are now catching up in a big way. Why do you personally enjoy drinking Gnarly Head? Quality wines with big bold flavors that you can enjoy every day. There is a varietal or blend for everyone, and they are a great value. PHOTO COURTESY OF GNARLY HEAD WINES Peppercorn Baby Back Ribs with Bourbon Maple Glaze 2 racks baby back ribs (each 2 to 2½ lbs.— membrane removed) For the rub: ◗ 2 tbsp. cracked black peppercorns ◗ 2 tbsp. smoked or sweet paprika ◗ 1 tbsp. coarse sea salt ◗ 1 tbsp. brown sugar For the glaze: ◗ ¼ cup bourbon or apple cider ◗ ¼ cup pure maple syrup ◗ ¼ cup (4 tbsp.) butter ◗ ½ tsp. vanilla extract 3 cups hickory or other hardwood chips, soaked in water for 30 minutes, then drained. DIRECTIONS 1. Place the ribs on a rimmed baking sheet. Combine the ingredients for the rub in a small bowl and mix with your fingers, breaking up any lumps in the brown sugar. Sprinkle the rub on the ribs on both sides, rubbing it into the meat with your fingertips. 2. Make the glaze: Combine the maple syrup, bourbon, vanilla extract and butter in a saucepan and boil until syrupy, four to six minutes, whisking to mix. Set the glaze aside. 3. Set up your grill for indirect grilling and heat to medium-low (300 degrees F). If using a charcoal grill, add half the wood chips to the coals. If using a gas grill, place the chips in your grill's smoker box. But you'll get a better smoky flavor on a charcoal grill. Place the ribs on the grate, bone side down, away from the heat. 4. Smoke-roast the ribs until sizzling, browned and tender. When ready, the meat will have shrunk back from the ends of the bones by ½ inch and the ribs will be tender enough to pull apart with your fingers. Add the remain- ing wood chips after 40 minutes; replenish the charcoal as needed. Total cooking time will be 1½ to 2 hours. 5. The last 30 minutes of cooking, baste the ribs with the glaze. Baste twice more before serving. Pour any remaining glaze over the ribs and serve at once.

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