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64 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 Mád 2015 Furmint: A nose of guava and kiwi with lime zest, acacia and wet gravel yields a more savory palate with tart yellow apple, daisies, lentils and celery salt; this is a crisp, lean wine, interesting and food-friendly yet quaffable. Szent Tamás 2013 Dongó Furmint: The reverse of the previous wine with yellow apples, lemon pith, green tea and chalk transition- ing into a more tropical expression of papaya and mandarins with lemon curd and a broad mid-palate. Szent Tamás 2012 Szent Tamás Furmint: Apricot, nectarine, jas- mine, chamomile and toast on the nose become pineapple, peach, cinnamon with a kiss of wood on the palate—the intense acidity braces the slight sweetness, translating to a rich mouthfeel. Szent Tamás 2012 Percze Furmint: A mineral-laden wine with apricot skin, yellow pear, kefir lime, acacia, lentils, mustard seed and sea spray—a dramatically long finish with bright, cutting acidity. Szent Tamás 2013 Dongó Szamorodni: Lusciouspoached peaches, dried apricots, marmalade and honeysuckle morphs into blueberries, white chocolate and crème caramel; a sweet nose but balancing acidity. { cover story } Experience Workshop, which was just awarded "Hungary's Best Restaurant 2016." Between the talented chef, Gábor Horváth, and the concerted effort to gather ingredients locally—including goat, a regional pleasure that is divine with the Szent Tamás Szent Tamás 86—the restau - rant's success brings even more attention to the gastronomic propensities of the regional dry white varieties. The facility houses the fine-dining restaurant but also possesses an interactive learning experi - ence—the Aszú House, a more casual bar and patio space, and the neighboring Gusteau Grillhouse, featuring griddles at the center of circular tables where the meat and produce are grilled by guests over hazelnut shells, which burn at a high heat without smoking, perfect for indoors. With the gourmet wine and food scene growing, the village of Mád grew as a destination as well. Kovács constructed the artfully designed Botrytis Hotel to accommodate visitors. He has even built a playground for the local kindergarten. Tasting NOTES Sweet Is Still LUSCIOUS "We try to blend the best of the overripe and the botrytis grapes," explains Szepsy Jr., leading to an in-depth discussion of Botrytis cinerea, as we taste the Szent Tamás 2013 Dongó Szamorodni. For more information and facts about Mad Furmint please visit: winesofexcellence.com THE NEW TASTE OF THE WORLD TOKAJI as type of wine was defi ned back around 1570 as "vinum primaenotae generosum" – "the supreme listed noble wine." TOKAJI ASZÚ was the only wine to enjoy tax-free status beginning in 1655, which resulted in a sharp increase in its production. MÁD's village name originates from an old prayer – written as "Maád" meaning "Today give" (us God…). Mád Furmint is imported by Vinum Tokaj International LLC and distributed exclusively in North America by Southern Glazer's Wine & Spirits.