Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/780573
100 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2017 { sommcon recap } A Side of Bourgogne To Be Discovered THE BOURGOGNE SEMINAR IMMEDIATELY KICKED OFF with a discussion about the clear move from using the term "Burgundy" to using the French "Bourgogne" when referring to wines from the region. Raj Vaidya, Head Sommelier at Daniel in New York City, summed it up best: "These are honest and soulful wines, very connected to France." It makes more sense to use the authentic name. Vaidya and James King, CSW, IWP, CWAS, FWS and AIWS, led our discovery of eight wines, as we compared and contrasted the different styles and values. The four reds and four whites represented the varying climates from north to south: Auxerre and Vézeley respectively in the Yonne department in the far north near Chablis, Marsannay and Nuits-Saint-Georges in the Côtes de Nuits, Pernand-Vergelesses and Savigny-lès-Beaune in the Côte de Beaune, and Rully and Saint- Véran in the Côte Chalonnaise. "It can't be overstated how important the producer is," lends Vaidya, as the wines do not move progressively from leaner to richer as we taste from north to south. We started with Pinot Noir, as they do in Bourgogne, and when asked why, Vaidya admitted he has heard many answers, but his take: "Pinot Noir is delicate and nuanced. It will taste drier and more vegetal if tasted after Chardonnay." In this flight, the Marsanny, Domaine René Bouvier 2014 Clos du Roy was clearly the richest wine, followed by the well-balanced Rully, Domaine de Rully Saint-Michel 2014 Champs Cloux, Premier Cru. The Pernand- Vergelesses, Domaine Pierre Marey & Fils 2014 Les Belles Filles, a structure driven wine with aggressive tannin, was weightier than the ethereal Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre, Domaine Philippe Defrance 2012 Signature. Moving to the whites, we find again that the producer's hand affects the wine as much as the cli - mate of the region. The Bourgogne Vézelay, Domaine de La Croix Montjoie 2014 L'impatiente certainly displayed characteristics of its cool climate but also showed weight. The Nuits-Saint- George, Château Gris 2011 Les Terrasses and the Saint-Véran, Domaine Thibert Pére & Fils 2013 Bois de Fée both showcased impressive mouthfeel, the Nuits-Saint-George from oak aging and the Saint-Véran from ripe fruit. The Savigny-lès-Beaune, Domaine Jean Chartron 2014 Pimentiers exhibited tart fruit and brisk acidity, finding a place in the middle stylistically. As reputable producers migrate into lesser-known regions in order to take advantage of lower land prices, it takes a little homework to find the treasures, but the reward is well worth it. "The biggest selling point for these wines is the value for price," comments Vaidya. King confirms, "These give the consumer an option, not huge alcoholic wines and just something different—and delicious." Bourgogne Côtes d'Auxerre, Domaine Philippe Defrance 2012 Signature Light in color with a rose petal-candied strawberry nose moving on to sour cherry and moist earth on the palate; auster - ity on the finish but—my favorite of the red line-up. Marsannay, Domaine René Bouvier 2014 Clos du Roy Ripe cranberry fruit with barnyard and mush - rooms; a fuller mouthfeel here and the presence of new oak—a great segue wine for the New World wine drinker. Bourgogne Vézelay, Domaine de La Croix Montjoie 2014 L'impatiente Hearts of palm, green beans and lime zest but surprisingly round on the palate; beautiful oak tannin to balance the fruit and acidity. The long finish melds the best of Old World and New World characteristics. Raj Vaidya, Head Sommelier at Daniel in New York City, and James King, CSW, IWP, CWAS, FWS and AIWS, led the seminar exploring lesser-known, afford- able regions within Bourgogne. by Allyson Gorsuch / photos by Michael Morse