The Tasting Panel magazine

November 2016

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74  /  the tasting panel  /  november 2016 VALUE AND BY-THE-GLASS RECOMMENDATIONS 88 Chalkboard 2015 Pinot Grigio, Italy ($10) Silky texture and tangy citrus; lively and balanced with lifted flavors and a charming finish. WX (WINERY EXCHANGE) 88 Vignobles Jeanjean 2015 Chardonnay Secret de Lunès, Pays d'Oc IGP, France ($13) Silky and clean with bright, fresh fruit and racy acidity; crisp, tangy and long; clean and balanced. MR. CAN 88 Caminhos Cruzados 2015 Titular, Dao, Portugal ($14) A Portuguese white blend with bright apple fruit and tangy citrus; bright and tangy, long and balanced. 40% Encruzado, 40% Malvasia Fina, 20% Bical. WINE TREES USA 88 Monte Volpe 2014 Estate Pinot Grigio, Mendocino County ($14) Nice density and tangy acidity with deep color and good balance. 15% Pinot Blanc. GRAZIANO FAMILY OF WINES 90 Michele Chiarlo 2009 Gavi Le Marne, Gavi, Italy ($15) A lovely version of Italy's most serious indigenous white variety, Cortese; smooth, bright and lush with juicy, ripe fruit and lively acidity. KOBRAND 91 Leconfield Wines SYN Cuvée Blanc, South Australia ($16) A fresh and bright non-vintage white blend; juicy and crisp with balance, style and finesse; long and racy. LITTLE PEACOCK IMPORTS 90 Argento 2014 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina ($14) Smooth and dense with juicy plum and soft spices; toasty and balanced; long and rich. BLENDS Rams at the Gate IN 2011, JEFF O'NEILL, ONE OF CALIFORNIA'S MOST successful producers of bulk wines and custom bottlings, bought an estate in the southern Sonoma part of Carneros, the Spanish word for "rams." He named the estate Ram's Gate and built a stunning winery, designed by Howard Backen, that seamlessly blends rustic and modern elements. As winemaker, O'Neill appointed celebrated vintner Jeff Gaffner, owner of Saxon Brown and consultant to numerous premium wineries. Their goal was to make superior vineyard-designated Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs. Using their estate grapes as well as fruit from such superstar vineyards as Sangiacomo, Hyde, Hudson, Gap's Crown, Ulises Valdez and Durell, they have achieved their goal in very shor t order. Their latest round of releases clearly demonstrates that they have catapulted their winery into the rarefied upper echelon of producers of these two noble varieties. BLUE REVIEWS 90 Ram's Gate 2014 Chardonnay, Carneros ($36) Silky and bright with juicy, racy Chard fruit; juicy, sleek and balanced 95 Ram's Gate 2014 Chardonnay, Green Acres Hill Vineyard, Carneros ($64) Subtle vanilla oak woven through racy acidity; elegant, complex and beautifully balanced; long and exceptional. 94 Ram's Gate 2014 Chardonnay, Hudson Vineyard, Carneros ($66) Lifted in style with great finesse and purity; a great wine from one of California great vineyards. 92 Ram's Gate 2014 Chardonnay, Durell Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($74) Smooth and lush but also graceful and elegant; creamy and ripe; long and luxurious. 93 Ram's Gate 2014 Estate Chardonnay, Carneros ($76) Bright and tangy with deep flavors of fruit, toasty oak and lively acidity; complex and classic. 90 Ram's Gate 2014 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($40) Smooth, dusty and showing cherry and savory notes; earthy, balanced and fresh. 93 Ram's Gate 2014 Pinot Noir, Roberts Road Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($70) Juicy cherry and earth notes mounted on a core of firm acidity; fresh, balanced and elegant. 94 Ram's Gate 2014 Pinot Noir, Gap's Crown Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($72) Bright-toned Bing cherry fruit on a silky texture; tangy and crisp; balanced, layered and long; stylish and lovely. 95 Ram's Gate 2014 Pinot Noir, Bush Crispo Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($74) Deep color ; rich, complex and elegant with depth, intensity and great balance; long and complete. 96 Ram's Gate 2014 Pinot Noir, Ulises Valdez Silver Eagle Vineyard, Russian River Valley ($74) Deep, rich and juicy with tangy red cherry and pure acidity; very elegant yet with lively style and a long, crisp finish. 95 Ram's Gate 2014 Estate Pinot Noir, Carneros ($76) Velvety textured with lavish cherry fruit; smooth, juicy and complex with great poise and depth; toasty vanilla oak on the long, lush finish.

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