Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/735312
86 / the tasting panel / october 2016 "hillsides"—actually very steep, rolling hills that climb a couple of hundred feet higher than the lower-elevation vines—provide more expressive fruit character. Vines on flatter plains provide the workhorse yields, giving upwards of four tons per acres, while the hills produce around two tons an acre. Blocks destined for the winery's flagship Benchmark Red Blend are thinned down to one cluster per shoot. The wines of William Hill Estate Winery span four series: The Napa Valley Collection, which includes a Cabernet Sauvignon, a Bordeaux-style red blend and a Chardonnay, sourc- ing fruit from the estate along with sites in St. Helena and in Carneros for the Chardonnay. The Benchland Series features an estate-bottled Bordeaux blend from select blocks and a Chardonnay from St. Helena and Carneros fruit. Benchmark is the winery's flagship Bordeaux-style blend, hand-selected from the vintage's best blocks. Mark Williams is focused on the three Napa tier wines, while the fourth series, the Coastal Collection is made from fruit in the North Coast and Central Coast and is produced in facilities in their respective regions. It's worth noting that when Gallo launched the Coastal Collection, they were trucking grapes up from the Central Coast—not ideal for wine quality—but in 2012, they made a big investment and bought a processing facility in the Central Coast. Soon, The Ranch is coming on board in St. Helena, a large custom crush facility that Gallo purchased last year. The idea is to be close to where the fruit grows, which is better for the final product. But Williams doesn't have to worry about that, as he gets to play right in William Hill's own backyard and can practically carry grapes into the winery's impressive facility to boot. A quick tour revealed stacks of new barrels waiting to be filled with the 2016 Napa Cabernet and the Reserve Chardonnay. Ample tank space allows him to separate lots with ease during harvest. The whites are whole cluster– pressed, then settled in tank and racked to barrel, where fermentation occurs. "We're focused on creating a distinct style for our Napa Valley Chardonnay," says Williams. He explains that the use of new American oak is intentional for those "toasted coconut" notes, but that only 30 per- cent is used "not to overpower, but it's distinct and people can recognize it." As for the reds, the Napa tier spends eight months in a combination of about a third new French oak and the rest is American. The Reserve Benchland tier and Benchmark red blend see 100 percent French oak and spend roughly 14 months in barrel, along with longer lees contact, resulting in more subtle- ties and integrated toastiness. The takeaway, for me, was that Williams has crafted beautiful wines—with the structure, elegance and complexity so often associated with the upper echelon of Napa Valley Cabernet (and sought-after cool-climate Chardonnay)—that come from a distinct place, not simply the Napa Valley AVA. With influential winds funneling up from San Pablo Bay, along with the proximity of William Hill's fruit to other more delimited AVAs, accompanied with the well-draining soils—all of these factors result in wines that are unique, expressive and could one day warrant a petition for a new sub-AVA. William Hill Estate Winery 2014 Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($27) Lemon- gold color; sweet fruit aromas of pineapple and coconut; creamy, but racy acidity, nice minerality with a caramel and toffee finish. William Hill Estate Winery 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($45) Deep ruby color; vibrant candied cinnamon and spiced blackberry notes with violets and cassis; fine- grained tannins; hints of tobacco, licorice and graphite; a savory finish with notes of black olives. William Hill Estate Winery 2013 Bench Blend Chardonnay, Napa Valley ($40) 100 percent ML, the wine is creamy with Meyer lemon from Carneros fruit and tropi- cal fruit flavors from St. Helena grapes; lees stirring adds to the richness, all bracketed by ample minerality and acidy. William Hill Estate Winery 2013 Benchland Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($60) Beautiful lilac and violet aromas, sweet baking spice; supple on the palate, boasting dark berry flavors that mingle with black olive notes; seamless with impeccable tannin and acidity; savory integrated wood spice on a lengthy finish. William Hill Estate Winery 2012 Benchmark Red Blend, Napa Valley ($100) Explosive dark berry aromas with hints of cocoa; fleshy and supple with generous mid-palate weight, flush with blueberry and black cherry flavors, followed by plums and savory spices, buttressed by mouth-drying tannins, a generous finish. PHOTO COURTESY OF WILLIAM HILL WINERY