The SOMM Journal

October / November 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  99 ery is located in the highest and most isolated part of Cariñena and, due to its large expanse, benefits from several microclimates and soils, ranging from sand to chunky slate. The combination of altitude, aridity and rocky terroir helps enhance the minerality of Bodegas Paniza's wines, which show great acidity in spite of the hot climate. Standouts among the whites include: Paniza Joven Blanco made from 100% Viura (also known as Macabeo). "Most people see our climate and think rich, lush reds and soft, warm-climate whites," says Serrano, "but because of our altitude and its corresponding temperature fluctuation, we get great acidity in our whites and an elegance in our reds." Bodegas San Valero, DOP Cariñena's oldest producer, sits on the south side of Cariñena village. Many of its vineyards lie in the surrounding plain. Originally founded with 60 growers, it now has more than 700, farming 8,600 acres. San Valero focuses on indigenous varieties which make up 70% of its plantings, and 25% of those are dedicated to Garnacha. Many of its vineyards are des - ignated "old vine," including a hilltop vineyard of 60-plus-year-old Macabeo and what may be the DO's oldest Garnacha vineyard, well over 100 years old, thought to be planted in the 1800s, before written records were kept. "We are only stewards of these vines from one generation to the next," says viticulturalist Mamen Chicote. "If we take care of them, they'll be here long after we are gone." Standouts from San Valero include its Particular Garnacha, Particular Cariñena and Particular Viñas Centenarias. The third and largest producer is Grandes Vinos y Viñedos, a company founded by the merging of five smaller winery partners with the vision of pooling their collective resources under one roof to better access the 10,000 acres they manage. The only producer to manage vineyards in all 14 growing areas, Grandes Vinos has about 30% of its fruit planted to Garnacha. Quality-to-value is the focus here with some wonderful wines, both white and red, being made at every price point. Of note at the top level is the flagship Anayón line in both Garnacha and varietal Cariñena from old vines in one of the region's highest vineyards. DOP Cariñena is an ancient winemaking region with a modern cooperative vision focused on creating top notch yet affordable wines—and building a future for the next generation. For more information on the wines of Cariñena, visit www.nextgreatgrape.com. Old-vine Garnacha vineyards in DOP Cariñena average 30 to 40 years old; some top the century mark. A stony vineyard at Bodegas Paniza, showing the region's shale and clay soil. PHOTO: LYN FARMER PHOTO: REBECCA PEPLINSKI PHOTO: LYN FARMER A selection of Garnacha wines from DOP Cariñena, photographed at Salero in Chicago.

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