The SOMM Journal

October / November 2016

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  73 constructing a new fermentation facility. With virgin space, the unique opportunity to have a winery with no foreign microbes informed the decision to buy all new barrels rather than taking a chance on bringing in one- and two-year-old barrels. Since then, the red continues to go in to 100 percent new French oak every year, as they liked the result. "Instead of wine being over-oaked, I think of barrels as being under-wined," laughs Rich. "If there's enough stuffing in that wine, it integrates. I think our wines are beautifully integrated." In addition to excellent equipment, the winery employs eight full-time vineyard workers, allowing unparalleled control over viticulture practices and pick - ing decisions. "Uniformity is really important in terms of getting your tannins ripe," Rich explains. "We can implement different techniques row by row. We even have the luxury of picking half a row on one day and the other half later." The ensuing wines are stunningly balanced, allowing them to age beautifully. "Moraga reds aren't showing their best until they're at least six years of age," shares Rich. The 1998 we try later proves his point, developing rich tertiary characteristics, a velvety mouthfeel and a prolonged, savory finish. The present-day winery, lying so close to Hollywood, enjoys an idyllic storied past. Victor Fleming—the direc - tor of both Gone with the Wind and The Wizard of Oz (in the same year, 1939)—lived on the ranch, enter- taining iconic stars like Vivian Leigh, Clark Gable, Ingrid Bergman and Spencer Tracy. Northrup Grumman executive Tom Jones and his wife bought the ranch in 1959, planting vineyards two decades later, believing the soils to be similar to Bordeaux; they were wise. The legacy of revered owners continues now as media tycoon Rupert Murdoch purchased the estate in 2013. He loves the property and has no plans to change it, or the wine—lucky for us all. The wines included a magnum of the 2003 Moraga White. TASTING NOTES Limited quantities of older vintages are still available for purchase. Moraga 2003 White ($230/magnum) "A full and expansive mouthfeel with oxidation that's pleasant: candied ginger, ripe pineapple, mango, cantaloupe and yellow flowers. Still retaining bright acid in the glass with an influence of oak on the palate— it's a complete knock-out." —Rachel Macalisang, Lead Sommelier, Bazaar by José Andrés Moraga 2014 White ($115) "Spectacular—gorgeous and broad on the palate with pointed but not overt acidity and subdued oak. It has an endless finish." —David Gadd, Executive Editor, The Somm Journal Moraga 1998 Red ($275) "Very Bordeaux-like with pencil lead, cigar box, tart red fruit and nice grip. I love this wine." —Albert Letizia, Bazaar by José Andrés Moraga 2012 Red ($175) "The fruit here feels and smells riper with more overt oak at this younger age. Nice and rich—this would kill at Augustine." —David Gibbs, Co-Owner, Augustine Wine Bar Moraga 2011 Red ($175) "Lush, ripe and complex with rich texture and a long, pleasing finish." —Anthony Dias Blue, Editor in Chief, The Somm Journal Moraga 2009 Dessert ($200/375ml.) A one-off late harvest wine made by Scott Rich in an unusual vintage. "Honey dripped on figs, white chocolate, marmalade, white flowers with a cara - melized crème brulee finish. The acidity buttresses the sweet- ness in this anomaly of a wine which took a year and a half to fermentquite a treat. —Allyson Gorsuch, Deputy Editor, The Somm Journal Winemaker Scott Rich in the cellar.

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