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60 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2016 { SOMM CAMP preview } Julian Halasz Winemaker, Darcie Kent Vineyards Darcie Kent is more than a painter-turned-vintner, although wine runs through her veins as well (her great-grandfather founded a Missouri winery in 1883 that was operated by her family until 1945). Kent established her Livermore Valley estate in 1996 after pur - chasing a home on a six-acre vineyard—part of a cluster of properties collectively known as Crane Ridge—from which her Hungarian- born winemaker, Julian Halasz, hand-crafts most of his single-vineyard bottlings. For Livermore Valley, Chardonnay is a heritage grape. This is where it all started, with Wente field selections as well as single- clone cultivars that now dominate at least 75% of Chardonnay plantings in California. In a tasting room that also serves as an art gallery for Kent's works—featured on the Darcie Kent bottle labels as well as on other Livermore Valley bottlings—Halasz talked about their Chardonnay program, which wins most of their accolades. "Livermore Valley has always been ideal for Chardonnay because of its east-west orienta - tion and cool nights," explains Halasz, "especially Crane Ridge, which is mostly on north- facing slopes. July and August days can hit 90°, but consistently drop down to 52° or 53° every night. This is ideal for Chardonnay—and, incidentally, for Cabernet Sauvignon as well." Halasz adds, "We produce four different Chardonnays from Crane Ridge, from differ- ent vineyards demonstrating the grape's site-specific sensitivity." The Darcie Kent 2014 De Mayo Vineyard Chardonnay is classically (for California) tropical (pineapple-towards-guava), with creamy aromas of bar- rel-fermentation heightening almost spicy, white flower fragrances. The Darcie Kent 2014 Hoffman Vineyard Chardonnay is also French oak–fermented, only with more new oak (80%) to accen- tuate fleshier texturing, higher acidity and deeper fruit tones. According to Halasz, "The De Mayo and Hoffman Vineyards are next to each other, both originally planted by the Wentes in 1992 to Chardonnay Clone 04. In 2012, however, the Hoffman Vineyard started to show some Eutypa (aka dead-arm disease), and so we cut off the bilateral arms and converted it to cane pruning, whereas the De Mayo is still spur-pruned on cordons. What we found with the cane pruning, when the fruit zone moves up higher into the canopy, is that cluster and berry sizes became smaller and the fruit profile shifted from less tropical, like the Hoffman, and more towards the apple/pear spectrum of the grape. This style responds better to new French oak." There is also a 100% stainless steel–fermented Chardonnay from Pistachio Lane Vineyard, picked at lower Brix for higher, Chablis-like acid ( "a big hit with restaurants" according to Halasz), plus an entry-level "Tesla Neighbors" bottling that combined bar - rel- and steel-fermented fruit. Says Halasz, "The big advantage we've always had in Livermore Valley is that we stand on the shoulders of Wentes and Concannons, benefitting from all that knowledge and experience. Now it's a matter of exploring the possible diversity—going deeper into Bordeaux and Rhône varieties, or even Grüner Veltliner, which we also produce." Heather McGrail and Mark Clarin Manager and Winemaker, McGrail Vineyards & Winery Epitomizing the latest generation of artisanal Livermore Valley producers, McGrail Vineyards was founded by a retired police officer named Jim McGrail (now an attorney), who originally pur - chased his 16.4-acre hillside property towards the east side of Livermore Valley as an investment. Jim and Ginger McGrail's daughter Heather, who manages the winery as a par tner, tells her family's story: "Because the proper ty sits on such ideal land for a vineyard, Phil Wente kept encouraging my dad to plant grapes. He would say, 'No way. I like to drink wine, not grow it.' But in 1999 he was finally persuaded. He planted the vineyard entirely to his favorite grape, Cabernet Sauvignon, with Phil's help as well as advice from Steven Kent, who bought all the grapes in the beginning. Mark Clarin and Heather McGrail in the McGrail Vineyards barrel room. The Darcie Kent Hoffman Vineyard Chardonnay is one of the winery's four vineyard-designated Chards. Winemaker Julian Halasz of Darcie Kent Vineyards.