Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/735024
{ SOMMjournal.com } 109 PANEL TASTING with Larner, Rusack, Beckmen and Stolpman At Rusack Vineyards, further up Ballard Canyon's narrow road, the estate is generously smat - tered with oak trees along its hilly vineyards. It remains the AVA's only winery open to the public. Sandy soil types similar to those at Larner exist at Rusack, while heavier clay and limestone can be found at higher eleva - tions at Stolpman Vineyards and higher still at Beckmen's 365-acre Purisima Mountain Vineyard, sit - ting up at 1,250 feet. Ballard Canyon AVA represents the Rhône varieties with pride, and although there's only a small contingent of wineries, our Somm Campers took note (as should our readers) of the brilliantly balanced bright-fruited reds and fresh, floral whites. "Ballard Canyon is off the beaten path," imparts Solorzano; "even the locals don't know the road exists." Steve Beckmen adds, "We're a hidden treasure." While Solorzano is an organic farmer, Steve Beckmen farms biodynamically and is Demeter- certified. "I believe it brings ripe - ness, elegance and refinement to the wines," he informs us. "The process reins in the power and flavor profile in the reds. We allow the vines to grow the way they naturally want to grow, giving them their own individual expression." The Ballard Canyon AVA was made official in October of 2012. Since then, all bottles produced by member wineries have the AVA name embossed on the shoulder, akin to Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Barolo. A group of seven wineries and 17 estates have banded together to put Ballard Canyon in our consciousness as a preeminent Syrah producing region. "Cornas, Hermitage— they're not big places, but we all know them. We don't need more acreage to make an imprint. We are making world- class wines," asserts Stolpman. Larner 2014 Estate Viognier, Ballard Canyon Fermented in equal parts new oak, neutral oak and stainless steel and then racked and blended. The kiss of new oak at fermentation shows in its full body and its nose of brioche- caramel. The minerality plays to its freshness (no ML here) as does the herbal-floral tonal - ity. On the palate, the clean chamomile and ripe pear and peach are lovely. Stolpman 2014 Roussanne, Ballard Canyon Every cluster is hand-rotated for a golden "suntan" and picked late (November/December); the wine is oak- aged. Love that toffee cream body with a mineral echo. Chardonnay is added as a "kicker" to lift its character. Rusack 2013 Estate Syrah, Ballard Canyon Using three different clones, this wine gets whole-berry fermen - tation and is aged in 30% new oak. A feminine-style red with notes of fresh mint, rhubarb and violets that pour through the glass to the finish. Beckmen 2014 Purisima Mountain Vineyard Syrah, Ballard Canyon Clonal and root stock variation (own-rooted vines). The entire property is picked—23 blocks from the bottom of the canyon to the middle to the top. The juice is blended early in the summer and bottled the following March after 16 months in French oak, one-third new. Concentrated and intense—the hallmark of Beckmen's wines—with sweet violets and a savory nose (olive tapenade). Acid is high, with cocoa-chalky tannins, a meaty texture and notes of plum and chocolate. Larner 2013 Estate Syrah, Ballard Canyon This just-released red is made up of five clones. The wine is aged two years in 30% new oak, some Russian oak. Wet stone and a spiced oak nose leads to a body of dark black fruit, white pepper and allspice. With a creamy dark chocolate undercore, Michael Larner notes, "This was an extremely hot year for us—we had to fight the alcohol and not get the grapes too ripe too quickly. This is almost a Paso Robles style, it's so ripe." Stolpman 2014 Estate Grown Syrah, Ballard Canyon The family grows 95 acres of dry-farmed Syrah on their own-rooted clones, first planted in 1992. While Stolpman sells to some of the most prestigious wineries and vintners, what they keep to produce their own label shows in this gorgeous, mouthwatering creature with seamless, dark berry fruit and aromatic red tea and roses from nose to palate. The wine is cold-fermented using concrete insulation and free run juice—no pressing—to minimize tannins. Co-fermented with Viognier in cooler vin - tages, which "makes the wine darker," says Pete Stolpman. Song and Verse: Tune In on Our ve Baard Canyon AVA Wines