Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/713388
Summer 2016 The Costume Designer 25 The dyes and inks used are nontoxic and the printed fabric is completely washable. Kinetic uses dispersed dye to col- orize fabrics, including many of the newer high-tech fab- rics. Most surprising is the ability to colorize nylons in both short runs and long runs, either single- or double-sided. Through the kinetic colorization process, the dye is actually put inside the fiber so the abrading associated with silk screening and wet printing does not take place. Even with bleach, the color is locked into the fiber. In addition to all of these printing benefits, JS Apparel also stocks an exten- sive library of paper patterns to choose from and is equipped not only to print yardage but also sew finished samples. It is important to note, however, that their foray into the film/television industry is new and not suited to the needs of everyone. While not for the Costume Designer needing a single blouse printed overnight, they are ideal for the big- event movies with lengthier prep time. JS Apparel is only one of many companies that prints yardage. While it is the only company to employ kinetic colorization, there are several others to choose from which offer the more traditional methods such as E&G and Shencad (the latter being a division of Sung Woo Textile Inc.) that makes it possible to increase the length between repeats or even completely disregard them. This gives tremendous flexibility to the original artwork and allows for panoramic and/or photographic prints. Finally, there is sublimation printing, a technique that uses heat-sensitive inks. Since the ink becomes part of the structure of the material, the images on the fabric are fade-and-crack resistant—even after multiple washings. By developing your own print, small runs of fabric can now easily be printed for sampling purposes. No more exten- sive searching for the perfect print, only to find that it is no longer available when more is needed. Also, fabric inven- tory is unnecessary—with many of the printers discussed below, it is now possible to print fabric on the same day that it will be cut. The latest printing process available is a technology known as kinetic colorization. JS Apparel in Carson, CA, is one of two companies in the United States that uses this machine, a replacement for both traditional wet print- ing and chemical dye processes. It is an environmentally friendly system, unlike those of their competitors, using less water and electricity than traditional dyeing methods. Aasha Ramdeen wears a print of her own design.