Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/711666
66 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2016 { cover story } Bordeaux varieties grown in warm interior valleys such as Alexander Valley and Knights Valley develop opulent aromas and layers of flavors. The Russian River south of Healdsburg heads west toward the ocean, punching through a series of hills, which allows cool sea-scented air to flow into the Russian River Valley at night, providing perfect conditions for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Farther south, a wider breach in the hills forms the Petaluma wind gap that ushers cold air into the county's central plain. This air flows up the side of 2,463-foot Sonoma Mountain, cooling the vineyards' grapes as they simultaneously enjoy the intense actinic sunlight that bathes the elevation. Kenwood's Stake in Sonoma Valley On the east side of Sonoma Mountain is Sonoma Valley. Native Americans called it the Valley of the Moon, for the way the rising moon nestles in the mountaintops. The climate is warm, but not too warm. Great Merlot is grown here. And in the heart of the valley lies the small village of Kenwood and its famous winery. Henderson is taking full advantage of these variations. "We took a look at everything," he says. "It was all on the table and up for discussion, starting with our package on the most com - mercially viable range—the Sonoma County Range. We've completely revamped the package to make it stand out from the sea of sameness." The most exciting new reserve tier of premium wines is called Six Ridges. It's named for the six mountain ridges that march from the western coast east to the border with Napa and Lake Counties. The valleys and hillsides between the ridges grow increasingly warmer as you go east. "Russian River Valley Chardonnay is sourced from the cold Green Valley sub-appellation and yields fruit-driven wines with limeade character," Henderson says. The Russian River Valley has come to be known as the perfect climate for Pinot Noir, and Six Ridges' delicate yet complex Pinots show off that elegance. Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon completes the Six Ridges wines offered to the trade. In addition, there's refreshing Sauvignon Blanc from the cool Sonoma Coast, Dry Creek Zinfandel from old vines grown along the valley's eastern benchland and Dry Creek Merlot, but for the time being these latter three wines are only available through Kenwood's wine club and tasting room. As you would expect, all this diversity creates a broad pal - ette of flavors for Henderson to choose from as he assembles the Sonoma County cuvées called the Sonoma Series. The grapes are sourced from vineyards throughout the county, and each vineyard's fruit is fermented and aged separately in the winery's 125 stainless steel ferment - ing tanks and then aged in some of its 17,000 small oak barrels. "These wines are made to be enjoyed now," Henderson says. "They're bright, fresh, and balanced. I'm still following Mike Lee's philosophy: make wines to complement food." This tier is com - prised of seven varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Merlot and Zinfandel. Kenwood's portfolio of rare and historic Single Vineyard bottlings features three wines offered to the trade and made from fruit grown on 100 acres of high- elevation hills that were part of Jack London's "Beauty Ranch," as London called his spread above the village of Glen Ellen, just a few miles south of the village of Kenwood. London was an adventurer who wrote ripping yarns like The Call of the Wild that were the chief home entertainment in days before radio and television. At his ranch, he experimented with sustainable farming techniques that were a century ahead of their time. He died in 1916 at age 40, but his legacy lives on in the intense fruit flavors, fine structure and impressive depth of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel grown on his ranchland. Among Henderson's favorite single vineyards is the Carriger Ranch. "It's on the southwest slope of Sonoma Mountain, up off the valley floor. It has really good soil, perfect exposure and produces grapes with wonderful flavor. The lower part of the vineyard is Sauvignon Blanc and the upper part Cabernet Sauvignon," he says. That exposure faces the Petaluma wind gap, which helps cool the fruit during blazing hot summer days. From 20 to 40 percent of the Cabernet Sauvignon that goes into Kenwood's flagship wine, the Artist Series, comes from the Carriger Ranch.