Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/711666
{ SOMMjournal.com } 57 While it bears mentioning that Colombo has branched out in his 30-plus years as a winemaker and consultant—creating wines from major appellations throughout the Rhône Valley, as well as in Provence, the Languedoc and Roussillon regions of southern France— it was in Cornas that he staged his revolution. With only 270 acres under vine, Cornas is physically the smallest red wine appellation in the Northern Rhône Valley. Cornas achieved AOC status in 1938, but it wasn't until the 1950s that locals began bottling wine within the appellation. This tiny enclave of red wine production (only wines that are 100% Syrah are allowed to be labeled as Cornas AOP, and Colombo opts to use the varietal name on his labels) is where Syrah truly finds its voice, producing robust and savory wines that embody a myriad of secondary aromas, including black pepper, smoked meats, black olive and lavender. With a warm, continental climate and near vertical vineyards that are sheltered from the famous Mistral winds, Cornas, prior to the 1980s, often produced wines that needed years in the bottle before being drinkable. "Jean-Luc Colombo is an extraordinarily historic producer in Cornas," explains Beally. "He came in, ruffled feathers by intro - ducing progressive winemaking techniques and a modern, more fruit-forward style of wine. He really elevated the region. For the first time, people felt they could bottle [at the] domaine and make a living, rather than just selling their fruit to the co-ops." Truly a family affair, Colombo works side by side with his wife, Anne, and was joined in 2010 by his daughter, Laure, who holds a degree in viticulture from the University of Bordeaux and a Master's in enology from the University of Montpellier. Armed with a healthy respect for nature, a curious spirit and a devil-may-care attitude toward convention, Colombo con - tinues to make wines that are an homage to their terroir, and quintessentially Cornas. Jean-Luc Colombo at Wild Ginger, Seattle Two years after Jean-Luc Colombo changed the face of Cornas with his release of Les Ruchets, Wild Ginger opened its doors in Downtown Seattle. Martin Beally joined the team in 2013 and stepped into his role as Wine Director earlier this year. Beally is a solid champion of the Colombo wines, representing each of the Cornas single-vineyard sites, and with vintages back to the early 2000s. Although Syrah can sometimes be a hard sell, Beally enjoys the challenge. "My job is to be a matchmaker with the staff, talk about how to pair the wines, talk about the care going into the wines, connect them to the story." "Pairing can be challenging at times, particularly with Asian cuisine. Here at Wild Ginger we have a dish— lamb satay, mari - nated in Indonesian soy sauce and black pepper, served with a traditional peanut sauce— which is an amazing pairing. The dish brings out the luscious, sweet and spicy elements in Colombo's Syrahs. It is uncanny, but it works." "Colombo has a reputation for making wines that are big and modern," notes Beally. "What people don't realize is that these wines are pretty restrained in terms of alcohol, and are built to be food- friendly. His mom and grandmother were both amazing chefs, so he knows how to cater to the food element!" Martin Beally, Wine Director for Wild Ginger, Seattle. Wild Ginger's Lamb Satay paired with the Jean-Luc Colombo Les Ruchets Cornas AOP. PHOTO: COURTESY OF JEAN-LUC COLOMBO PHOTO: JOANN ARRUDA PHOTO: JOANN ARRUDA Colombo with his daughter Anne, wife Laure, and vineyard companions Corton, Fitou and Myrtille.