The Tasting Panel magazine

August 2016

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66  /  the tasting panel  /  august 2016 BLUE REVIEWS Pure Poetry CLIFF LEDE CREATES WORLD- CLASS WINES THAT SING IN 2002, CANADIAN-BORN Bordeaux enthusiast Cliff Lede purchased 60 acres and the S. Anderson Vineyard winery in Napa Valley's Stags Leap District, renaming the estate Cliff Lede Vineyards. His aim was modest: to create a world-class wine estate. He has succeeded admirably. Working with vineyard guru David Abreu, Lede replanted the vineyards, including a southwest facing hill above the Silverado Trail that Lede called the Poetry Vineyard. Designated plots are given the names of Lede's favorite rock songs. In 2009, Lede looked northward and purchased the former Breggo Cellars in Mendocino's Anderson Valley ; he renamed it FEL Wines as an homage to his mother, Florence Elsie Lede, and later acquired the Savoy Vineyard, a benchmark vineyard for Anderson Valley Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The FEL Wines portfolio makes a nice Burgundian-inspired complement to the Cliff Lede Bordeaux- centric range. Remi Cohen, VP and General Manager of Lede Family Wines, directs the Cliff Lede Vineyards and FEL Wines operations and serves as brand ambassador, with Chris Tynan in charge of winemaking. Here are my notes from recent tastings. 94 Cliff Lede 2013 Stardust Heaven Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District ($110) Dense with deep plum and spice, yet supple and velvety with rich flavors and lovely balance; elegant, tangy and long. The name is derived from the "Ziggy Stardust" and "Stairway to Heaven" blocks of Lede's Poetry Vineyard. 88 Bernier 2015 Chardonnay, Val de Loire IGP, France ($13) Bright, crisp and minerally with balance and charm; a product of the Couillard brothers, who were the first to plant Chardonnay in the Loire Valley 25 years ago. VINEYARD BRANDS 89 JaM Cellars 2015 Butter Chardonnay, California ($16) Creamy—indeed, buttery—with toasty oak and ripe pear fruit; rich and dense with lush style. JOHN ANTHONY FAMILY OF WINES 89 Toad Hollow Vineyards 2014 Richard McDowell's Selection Merlot, Sonoma ($16) Merlot may make a popular comeback with well- priced and well-made versions like this; toasty, rich and long with ripe plum and spice. V2 WINE GROUP 88 Liberty School 2014 Merlot, Central Coast ($16) Another affordable winner from Austin Hope; clean, ripe berry fruit and a nice hint of spice. HOPE FAMILY WINES 88 Broadside 2014 Wild Ferment Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles ($18) Happening Paso Robles checks in with this Cab with spice and tangy raspberry fruit; clean, smooth and long. 89 Murphy-Goode Winery 2013 Merlot, California ($15) Smooth and juicy with clean, fresh fruit and lively acidity; tangy and balanced, long and crisp. 83% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc. JACKSON FAMILY ESTATES SPIRITS 92 Mad March Hare Poitín, Ireland ($25) A clear, smooth traditional spirit (pronounced PUT- cheen) distilled in Ireland from barley; silky and fresh with some spice and mellow grain; unusual and intriguing. INTREPID SPIRITS 93 KIN White Whiskey, USA ($41) Smooth and creamy with soft flavors of vanilla and new oak; one of the best of its growing category. 93 Distillery 291 White Dog Colorado Rye Whiskey, USA ($48) Unaged rye; clean with spice and deep, mellow flavors; clear and dry with fresh, racy style. 92 Union Horse Distilling Reunion Straight Rye Whiskey, USA ($37) Toasty, spicy nose; caramel, cinnamon and aromatic oak; silky and long. 92 Rabarbaro Zucca Amaro Liqueur, Italy ($25) Deep reddish brown color ; bitter nose, dense and sweet with smooth, rich amaro style. DISARONNO INTERNATIONAL 91 Flaming Leprechaun Fiery Cinnamon Whiskey Irish Spirit, Ireland ($25) Cinnamon nose; smooth, sweet and spicy with rich cinnamon flavor ; lush and long. 3 HEARTS OF IRELAND spice.

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