Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/711402
DEPARTMENT HEADER 62 / the tasting panel / august 2016 The Cliffhanger "The Cliffhanger project started about seven years ago because we wanted to emphasize our grapes that are cultivated on rockier soils at higher altitudes," says Winemaker Lucio Matricardi. "Pinot Grigio at 400 to 500 meters above sea level [about 1,300 to 1,650 feet] has an incredible richness. We emphasize low yields, do greenery management including leaf removal and wait longer to harvest. That gives the Pinot Grigio an even fuller mouthfeel and more pronounced flavors of melon, pear, peach and apricot." Because of the greater fluctuations between daytime and nighttime temperatures at these altitudes, the grapes also have both great fruity characteristics and proper acidity to balance them. Matricardi also points out that too often the great red grapes of Trentino have been overlooked because of the market's emphasis on the region's refreshing white wines. So now Mezzacorona is giving increased attention to two of Trentino's primary red varieties: Teroldego and Lagrein. Matricardi decided to combine the two in his Cliffhanger red blend. "Teroldego, which grows in the lower part of the valley, makes up 70% of the blend," he says, "while Lagrein, which is the other 30%, grows on the hills in poor soil and where there is less water." Singling Out Teroldego In addition to the blend, Matricardi has also singled out Teroldego as the basis for a varietal Riserva. "The Rotaliano flats are what the French would call a 'cru,'" he says. "It's an area that has very little moisture in the soil. In 1971, it received more attention when Teroldego Rotaliano was named as a new DOC." Of the 1,250 acres of the small region, located at the juncture of the larger Adige and the smaller Noce rivers, Mezzacorona is the largest grower, farming about 500 acres of grapes. "We at Mezzacorona are strong in our core variety wines," Director General Maccari says. "But, with our excellent vineyard sources and innovative wine- making, we are also planning to showcase higher levels of premium quality —Fabio Maccari, Director General of Gruppo Mezzacorona "The agronomist is like a conductor with an orchestra of 1,600 members." Mezzacorona's winery is known as Cittadella del Vino (the Citadel of Wine). Winemaker Lucio Matricardi.