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THE MESSAGE 16 / the tasting panel / august 2016 "Part of the reason for this renewed interest in gin is that today's bartenders are very international, as they fly around the world introducing new cocktails to new cultures," says Beefeater Master Distiller Desmond Payne. PHOTO: RICHARD CARLETON HACKER Beefeater Puts a New Spin on Gin "E xploding gin" is not a gunpowder-infused Martini—it is what's happening to this juniperific spirit around the world, and who better to observe it than Desmond Payne, Beefeater's Master Distiller? "The current generation of bartenders is the best ever," Payne beams. "They are more focused, more imaginative, and I can see it in their expanded use of gin in cocktails in countries where it was never used before." Inspired, I suspect, by the evolving gin revolu- tion, a few years ago, Desmond developed a limited-edition Beefeater Burrough's Reserve Oak Rested Gin. "We have a tiny copper still, No. 12, that Sir James Burroughs used in his original Chelsea distillery," Desmond said. "I was inter- ested in what would happen if I scaled down our original Beefeater recipe for this small still, then 'rested' the gin with several orange peels for four weeks in Lillet Blanc wine barrels." The result is Burrough's Reserve Oak Rested Gin No. 1 ($70), pale yellow in color with complex nuances of citrus and lettuce and a slightly concentrated Beefeater character. Next up will be Reserve Oak Rested Gin No. 2, using Lillet Rouge barrels. As Beefeater's Master Distiller has shown, although it is a centuries-old spirit, gin is still evolving. —Richard Carleton Hacker Oh, Sheila! A lthough Sheila's Wine Bar and Restaurant opened in 2004 in Camarillo, CA, it came into its own as one of Ventura County's "best kept secrets" after Pablo and Bertha Medina acquired it in 2006. Its startlingly large, rustically elegant expanse artfully displays many of its 350 wine labels. "We have an interesting approach to putting together our wine list," Pablo Medina explains. "Bertha has a good palate for whites, [while] I have a palate for reds. We share notes, and then narrow down our choices when we update our wine list. Those notes also come in handy when informing our customers about what's new, and what dishes the wines will pair best with." Pablo, who honed his knowledge of wine over 17 years as the food and beverage manager at a prestigious local country club and has passed the Introductory Examination of the Court of Masters Sommeliers, estimates California wines make up 85 percent of the selections. The remaining 15 percent include European and Argentine wines. Over the years, he mentored son Ivan Medina, now 22, in mastering knowledge of varietals and terroir. "It was almost part of my home schooling, between math and history," Ivan quips. The couple also encouraged Ivan to train informally in Sheila's kitchen. While he surprised some regulars with his culinary gifts prior to his studies, the recent Culinary Institute of America/St. Helena graduate has since proven himself to be as much of a draw for customers as the wine list. "We let Ivan decide what he's going to put on the menu," says a beaming Bertha. "He's done a fantastic job of bringing in new culinary trends while enlivening classics like the filet mignon and duck customers regularly ask for." "I initially thought I would just cook and learn on my own," Ivan humbly counters. "However, after discussing my career plans with my parents and CIA rep- resentatives, I realized that CIA had the most credibility, based on its mission and other noted chefs who attended. I continue to experiment with fine ingredients and new flavors, always push- ing myself to learn beyond my knowledge." —Elyse Glickman Talent and wisdom beyond his years: Chef Ivan Medina of Sheila's Wine Bar and Restaurant in Ventura County, CA. Kosta Browne 2013 Keller Ranch/ Russian River Valley Pinot Noir paired with Ivan's star anise and licorice root roasted duck breast, Calvados sautéed Brussels sprouts, foie gras and citrus zest wild huckleberry sauce. Talent and wisdom beyond Kosta Browne PHOTO: ELYSE GLICKMAN PHOTO: ELYSE GLICKMAN