The Clever Root

Spring / Summer 2016

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s p r i n g / s u m m e r 2 0 1 6 | 5 5 Birch is Chef Brendan Collins' first foray into Hollywood. His kitchen, just a hundred feet from the beginning of the vegetable bazaar, makes him a neighbor and the nearest celebrity cuisinier. Every Sunday, Angelenos traipse up Cahuenga in search of Collins' city-famous "Sunday Roast," featuring dishes from his childhood and the English kitchen, such as York- shire pudding, veggies in the hole and bangers and mash. Of course, the restaurant's menu is compiled with vegetables from local farmers and sustainable growers. Collins has just published his debut cookbook, Cooking, Blokes & Artichokes: A Modern Man's Guide to the Kitchen (Kyle Books). The Hollywood kitchen boss and new author says, "Birch is still new, but doing very well. The Hollywood area is changing and becoming even more densely populated. And it's great about being so close to the market. We can just go grab the dolly and fill 'er up with fresh produce." Owner of LA FungHi, Dirk Hermann. Hollywood's BIRCH GROWS L os Angeles Chef Brendan Collins opened Birch last year along the Cahuenga corridor between Sunset and Hollywood Boulevard. It's a provocative choice for one of the city's leading independent restaurateurs. Many of his culinary peers continue to move into the City of Angels outlying areas such as Echo Park, downtown and the beach communities. "I wanted something smaller than what I had done at Waterloo + City," states British-born Collins referencing his closed and much lauded Culver City eatery. "It needed to be more personal in a (reduced) space and about the food. We found this quaint spot in Hollywood with the right rent. " Seating 59 inside with additional tables for al fresco dining in the back, Birch's design is purposefully clean and sparse, allowing the meal to be the dining focal point. The name refers to the kitchen helmer's childhood spent in England's Nottingham near a thicket of birches. Collins' menu has elements of his British upbringing such as English peas, bangers and mash, Yorkshire pudding and skillet toffee. Yet, like most European-trained chefs, the stove master showcases a global flavoring indicating the United Kingdom as a melting pot with skewered monkfish tikka masala (India), lobster cappellini (Italian), sashimi scallops (Japan) and a rabbit baklava (Greece). "We are really working to make creative food," Collins says. "More vegetable-centric, having more seafood and obviously farmers market-focused." Owner of Owner of Owner LA of LA of FungHi, LA FungHi, LA Dirk Hermann. Dirk Hermann. Dirk Collins has just published his debut cookbook, Cooking, Blokes & Artichokes: A Modern Man's Guide to the Kitchen (Kyle Books). The Hollywood kitchen boss and new author new author new says, "Birch is still new, but doing very well. very well. very The Hollywood area is changing and becoming even more densely populated. densely populated. densely And it's great about being so close to the market. We can just go grab the dolly and dolly and dolly fill 'er up with fresh produce." Deano Mueller of Bernard Ranches with Chef Brendan Collins.

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