The Clever Root

Spring / Summer 2016

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For a large scale roaster like Illy, blends are a necessity, but not necessarily an easy way out. "Blending coffee beans is difficult," explains Illy's Master Barrista Giorgio Milos. With as many as nine different components in a blend, Illy's senior tasters must taste each component prepared three different ways, then grade the beans based on specific characteristics. It's more about the specific characteristics of the bean than its origin, however, that qualify it for a blend. Using a football analogy, Giorgio explains, "The quarterback is always going to be Ethiopian and the running back is going to be Brazilian, but the other positions in the blend can be substituted based on the specific characteristics they are bringing to the blend; it doesn't matter where they come from." The argument against blends has been that they provide the opportunity to hide inferior beans, something that probably happened a lot more in years past. Today, roasters like King's Row Coffee are fighting to change that image. Successful chef- turned-coffee roaster Craig Shelton of King's Row is passionate about his blends, saying, "We are in an age of coffee in which the focus has shifted from consumption to appreciation. The Maillard reaction in roasting alone creates more than 800 flavor and aroma compounds, and when prepared properly with individual attention for each varietal, the potential for complexity is massive. We roast each coffee variety separately and then blend them in precise but unequal fractions based on the flavor profile we are seeking. When you set the needle to one temperature, as is the case with traditional blends, you're left with a limited range of expression." The Buzz on Single-Origin Single-origin coffees officially stepped out from rela- tive obscurity in 1999 with the debut of the Cup of Excellence, a competition that identified the best farms' beans rather than the region or the country. These farms were pushed into the spotlight, embrac- ing the cult-like status that micro-lot coffees are now receiving, driven by high prices and low quantities. "Single-origins are a great tool to directly con- nect consumers to a particular producer narrative 6 8 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t COFFEE Leslie Mah, Head Roaster of Ritual Coffee Roasters, releases a batch of roasted beans at their roastery in San Francisco, CA. PHOTO BY AMBER CANTERBURY coffee in which the focus has shifted consumption to appreciation. The Maillard roasting alone creates more than 800 aroma compounds, and when prepared individual attention for each varietal, for complexity is massive. We roast variety separately and then blend precise but unequal fractions based on profile we are seeking. When you set one temperature, as is the case with blends, you're left with a limited range expression." on Single-Origin coffees officially stepped officially stepped officially out from rela- from rela- from in 1999 with the debut of the of the of Cup of competition that identified the best Leslie Mah, Head Roaster of Roaster of Roaster Ritual of Ritual of Coffee Roasters, releases a batch roasted beans at their roastery their roastery their in roastery in roastery San Francisco, CA. 6 8 | t h e c l e v e r The milarities in terminology betwn coff beans and grapes are very evident. Terms like vintage, varieties, te r, ripene, fermentati and blending are cmly used f bh.

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