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80 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2016 DISH 4: White Dragon maki roll WINE 4: Valdespino Tio Diego Amontillado Dry Sherry, 8 Year Old, Spain Tio Diego is one of the most dr amatic examples of long flor aging. "Valdespino is the last house to still ferment their Sherry's in oak barrels rather than stainless steel," says Mendez. After eight years under flor, it then ages oxidatively for four years, develop - ing rich complexity and nutty flavors. The complex flavors of the White Dragon maki with tempura shrimp and a sweet soy glaze, along with the spice from wasabi seemed like a challenge to pair. The Amontillado ended up mellowing out the spice of the wasabi, making the roll sing in harmony, while it also highlighted the nuttiness of the Sherry. It's a surprising but blissful match and it also paired wonderfully with the tobiko nigiri, complementing the texture and saltiness of the fish roe. THE RARE WINE COMPANY (AND OTHERS) DISH 5: Yakisoba stir-fried buckwheat noodles with shiitake, asparagus and beef WINE 5: El Maestro Sierra Oloroso Sherry, 15 Year Old, Spain This is one of Spain's very few female-owned and -operated wine producers in Jerez, a mother and daughter team which is "no small feat in a male-dom - inated machismo culture," Mendez says. She selected this fuller bodied oloroso to fit into the meal where a red wine would typically work. Aged for 15 years in the solera system, it has incredible complexity with aromas of hazelnuts, fresh figs, exotic spices and minerally saline hints on the finish. Even with the spice in the duck dish, which typically fights with higher-alcohol still wines, this oloroso melds nicely despite the 19% alcohol. "It's tradition - ally served with game," Mendez notes, so this pair makes sense. DE MAISON SELECTIONS DISH 6: Spicy orange tamarind glazed duck breast WINE 6: Brooks 2013 Janus Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon The Brooks famil y named this floral and juicy Pinot Noir after the mythological Roman god of beginnings, transi - tions and connected doorways. This flagship wine is an ultimate expression of Oregon Pinot Noir from Willamette Valley, with medium body along with inviting flavors of plums and dried cherries, with a wisp of dried roses. While the spice in the duck dish fought against the tannins in the wine, the earth and delightful saltiness of the noodles and beef were a nice match. The bright vivacity of the wine seems to soften the saltiness of the noodle dish and brighten up the beef. Liz Mendez on the Versatility of Sherry "Sherry is the unicorn of the wine world," Mendez says of the oft-under-appreciated Spanish wines of Jerez. The Palomino grape is low in acid and even while the wine is acidified, the finished Sherry remains quite low in acidity. Despite this, it does the job of pairing like a more highly acidic Champagne. "There are more similarities than we realize," says Mendez. The Palomino vines grow in soils similar to the chalk that's in Champagne region, called albariza, a clay-loam soil that can be up to 50% chalk. She also finds Sherry an easy wine to take you through an entire meal, as one might with bubbles. We lined up the three Sherry to compare the various colors, styles and production methods. "The color exempli - fies the difference between biological aging and oxidative aging," Mendez says. Biological aging means it aged under flor, the yeast cap, preventing any air from touching the wine. Manzanilla, the lightest colored wine, is produced in this manner. The name also indicates that it's made around the port of Sanlúcar de Barrameda in Andalucia. Fino and manzanilla sherry are low enough in alcohol for the flor to grow without any oxygen introduced into the process. As a result, the wine remains light in color for years. For amontillado, alcohol grows in the barrels causing the flor to burn off and the aging becomes oxida - tive. This deepens the color, as we see in the second wine. Oloroso, on the other hand, starts its life oxidatively aged, fortified above 15% alcohol so that flor can't even form. Since flor can't live in this environment, air circulates and the again is all oxidative creating the deeper color. Mendez was excited to showcase this range of Sherry, alongside several still wines to make the firm point she is wildly passionate about: "Sherry doesn't just complement a dish, it elevates it," she says emphatically. "Isn't that what it's all about?"