Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/663373
Don't Call It Champagne 70 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } APRIL/MAY 2016 Lately I've been mulling over a recent question posted on the discus- sion board of the GuildSomm website. Sommeliers who adhere to the Court of Master Sommeliers school of thought are taught to use a standardized detailed format, "the grid"—divided basically into site, nose and palate— when tasting and evaluating wine. A member asked whether the tasting grid could be applied to Champagne and sparkling wine for analytical purposes. The grid was designed for still wine, so the answer to this post from one of the Masters was along the lines of, "We're going to gather our thoughts and get back to you." I'm looking forward to that response, but for the purposes of this category report on sparkling, at least I didn't have to make any deduc - tions based on blind tastings. I just got to sit back, relax and describe. Still, the point remains (or rather, sparkling, the point remains): Maybe we don't take the Champagne and sparkling category as seriously as we should—and yet, I know we do, especially from a winemaker's perspective. The méthode champenoise is a very complicated winemaking prac - tice; the sheer effort alone deserves our utmost respect. That's not to say that a well-made German Sekt employing the continuous tank method should be easily dismissed either. Maybe it's that bubbles make everything seem lighter, less serious and more celebratory—it's largely this celebratory branding that enables Champagne to charge the prices it does. But not all sparkling wine is meant for special occasions. Just look at Cava. Catalans drink Cava with virtually every meal, as well they should—it's an awesome pairing partner. All bubbles were considered here except Champagne. We did this out of a desire to give other wines a chance to sparkle, being particularly inspired by Cordorníu's Anna de Codorníu Cava. These bubbles are well-made, yet offer incredible value—and that is cause for celebration. WE TASTE A WIDE RANGE OF SPARKLING WINES FROM AROUND THE WORLD by Jessie Birschbach Where to begin . . . ? Seriously, where do you begin when the producer you're writing about has been around since the 16th century? Especially when this winemaker is responsible for defining the very category of wine it sells. I guess with just the name, right? Codorníu (pronounced co-door-NEW). If you haven't heard of Codorníu, chances are you havent heard of Cava—Spain's version of traditional méthode champe - noise sparkling wine, in which secondary fermentation is achieved in the bottle. Although Codorníu was founded in 1551, it wasn't until 1872 that Josep Raventósdescendant of heiress Anna Codorníu and enologist Miguel Raventosintroduced a sparkling made in the método tradicional. He likely got the idea while traveling through Europe selling his still wines, including, of course, a visit to Champagne. Initially they even called it Champaña, but eventually ended up going with Cava, which means cellar or cave in Catalan. A well- deserved, unique name, as there are a few major distinctions between the two other than not being from Champagne. Born in the town of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia in the Alt-Penedès (one of Europe's highest-altitude winegrowing regions) in Catalonia, Cava is tradition - ally made from three white grapes, principally Parellada, but also Macabeu and Xarel·lo. Cava DO requires lesser time on lees than Champagne: nine months for the usual stuff, 15 months for reserva and 30 months for gran reserva. Then, just over 30 years ago, Anna de Codorníu Cava, Penedès, Spain C A V A { category report } C A V A