Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/661678
78 / the tasting panel / april 2016 BLUE REVIEWS La Côte d'Oregon Domaine Serene Rivals Grand Cru Burgundy BURGUNDY-LOVING Minnesotans Grace and Ken Evenstad arrived in Oregon's Willamette Valley in 1989, investing in a 42-acre hilltop estate in the Dundee Hills. Their winery, named Domaine Serene after their daughter, effectively launched Oregon's luxury wine industry. Today, Domaine Serene produces Pinot Noir from six vineyard estates spanning three Willamette Valley AVAs, as well as Chardonnay solely from high elevations in the Dundee Hills. In 2001, a state-of- the art, five-level, gravity flow winery was constructed, specifically designed to produce world-class Pinot Noir. Bringing their vision of Pinot Noir full circle, last year the Evenstads purchased Château de la Crée, a Burgundy estate in the Côte d'Or. I look forward to seeing what they make of the new property as the first vintage launched under their ownership (2013) reaches distribution channels. In the meantime, domestic Pinot Noir hardly gets any better than the ones the Evenstads are making at Domaine Serene. 90 Domaine Serene 2013 Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay, Dundee Hills ($55) Silky and smooth with ripe pear and minerals; juicy, tangy and bright with balance and a long, graceful finish. 92 Domaine Serene 2013 Chardonnay, Clos de Lune Vineyard, Dundee Hills ($70) Lush nose; smooth and rich texture with tangy citrus and racy acidity; elegant and fresh with depth and finesse. 93 Domaine Serene 2013 Chardonnay, Côte Sud Vineyard, Dundee Hills ($75) Smooth vanilla nose; silky and lush with ripe pear and tangy acidity; rich and showing vanilla oak and graceful structure; long and deep. 88 Tormentoso 2014 Here Be Dragons Pinotage, Paarl, South Africa ($14) South Africa's signature red grape gets smooth, spicy and meaty in this version, with rich, earthy blackberry and dense flavors. VINEYARD BRANDS 88 Caminhos Cruzados 2013 Titular Colheita Tinto, Dão, Portugal ($14) A new Portuguese table wine producer with a modern outlook (the name means "crossroads"). Smooth and youthful with lush plum and wild berries; juicy and intense. Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Alfrocheiro. WINE TREES USA 89 Sables d'Azur 2015 Rosé, Côtes de Provence, France ($15) A charming pink Provençal quaffer for beach days; dry, crisp and racy; lively and lifted. Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah. VINUM INTERNATIONAL SPIRITS 93 VDKA 6100 Vodka, New Zealand ($38) Clean, smooth and showing vanilla and creamy texture; lush and rich with lovely, elegant style; dry and pure; a beautiful expression of a clean, pristine land. OPICI 92 Frey Ranch Gin, USA ($35) A Nevada-made gin from a family of farmers turned vintners turned distillers. Citrus-juniper nose; aromatic and sweet with spice and tea-like flavors; peppery, intense and smooth. FREY RANCH ESTATE DISTILLERY 94 Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon, USA ($60) Matured in two separate charred oak barrels. Deep amber color ; toasty, caramel nose; lush and buttery with flavors of toasted oak, caramel and chocolate; smooth, elegant and complex. 92 Usquaebach Reserve Blended Scotch Whisky, Scotland ($40) A venerable brand with a heritage dating a back to 1877. Light and smooth with lush dried fruit and spice; mellow, smooth and toasty; long and charming finish. COBALT BRANDS 91 The Pogues Irish Whiskey Aged Three Years, Ireland ($30) Named for the notoriously rowdy Celtic band. Spicy and toasted with a hint of sweetness and smooth, balanced style; mellow, clean and showing dried fruit, vanilla and finesse. M.S WALKER 92 Pierre Croizet VS Cognac, France ($30) A Fins Bois Cognac from multi-generation family producers. Pale amber color ; soft, toasty nose; light, floral and silky with lovely caramel and toasted oak; smooth, supple and long. MHW USA 92 Castello Banfi Grappa, Italy ($46) Composty nose; smooth, clean and showing a touch of sweetness; earthy, balanced and rich with lovely texture and a long, elegant finish. BANFI VINTNERS