The SOMM Journal

February / March 2016

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1986 1982 1983 1998 1989 2008 2004 The Central Coast AVA is approved, encompassing both the Livermore Valley AVA and Arroyo Seco AVA where the family vineyards reside. The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards opens, becoming California's third winery restaurant. The Concerts at Wente Vineyards annual series is launched. Livermore AVA approved; Carolyn and her mother, Jean, wrote the federal applications for the official AVA designation. Carolyn and Jean Wente draft Arroyo Seco AVA as well as in 1984 the Monterey AVA. The Course at Wente Vineyards opens, an 18-hole championship golf course designed by Greg Norman. The Wente family forms international joint ventures and expands exports. Today, Wente Vineyards is exported to more than 70 countries. In 1989, Carolyn and Jean draft the San Francisco Bay AVA, which is eventually approved in 1999. Carl H. Wente is inducted into the Culinary Institute of America's Vintner's Hall of Fame. Fifth Generation Winemaker Karl D. Wente introduces The Nth Degree. PHOTO: ELI PITTA CHAPTER 3: Creating a Regional Heritage If the '60s was the beginning of the "Flower Power" generation, it was also the flowering—quite literally—of many viticultural practices in California. At the beginning of the decade the house Chardonnay received a "best in California" nod from the Michelin Guide, thanks to the Wente Clone, developed in conjunction with University of California–Davis viticulturists from bud wood selected in Burgundy and state - side. The success of the clone led the Wente family to establish a certified nursery to supply other vintners with cuttings and rootstock. Wente introduced technology in the cellar, experi - menting with jacketed stainless steel fermenters and centrifuges for better efficiencies and quality. Third Generation family member Karl L. Wente planted vineyards in Arroyo Seco, pioneering winegrowing there in what many thought was an inhospitable place due to its high winds. That cool climate has, of course, worked in concert with the shale and limestone soils to produce wines of concentration and elegance. Also in this decade, the Wentes opened one of the first public tasting rooms in California, promoting pride of place for the winery and the region. They have a long, long track record of making outstanding wine. You have to point to the Wente clone of Chardonnay and point out how hugely important it is to the industry. The Wente clone is not just for California—it's in other places in the world and so important to that grape worldwide. But there is also the history of wine in the Livermore Valley that goes to the 1880s and the Wentes defined the Livermore AVA—they basically are the Livermore AVA and the history of that whole region coincides with the history of the family making wine there. They are one of the great Californian wine families. —Tim Gaiser, M.S., adjunct professor for the Rudd Center for Professional Wine Studies at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in Napa Valley CHAPTER 2: Pioneering Viticulture It was the Second Generation, headed by Ernest and Herman Wente, that char ted the course for Wente vine- yards for the next 40 years. Making and selling Semillon- based altar wines during Prohibition kept the winery afloat and allowed the brothers to hone in on viticultural improvements and innovations. After repeal of Prohibition, Herman helped found the Wine Institute to create stan - dards and a roadmap to professional winemaking. And the winery made significant inroads, too: It was the first California winery to release varietally labeled Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, in 1933, and Chardonnay, in 1936. By the end of the decade, Wente was hailed as the state's "First Family of Chardonnay." They were the first to name and sell wine by varietal. Post- Depression and -Prohibition, they were trying to separate them - selves [from] the plonk that people were unloading waiting for Prohibition to end. They realized that their market was a different market—their market was whatever was the fine wine market in California—admittedly small—so they decided to name their '32 Sauvignon Blanc [varietally] . . . back then everyone was call - ing their wine with French names. If you think about it, it really set American and Californian [wine] on a course. —Rick Kushman, wine commentator for Capital Public Radio in Sacramento and the creator and co-host of Bottle Talk with Rick and Paul Second Generation: Ernest Wente and Herman Wente. Third Generation: Karl L. Wente. 96 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016

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