Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/637107
{ SOMMjournal.com } 63 ers have also taken an interest in Sherry as an ingredient in mixed drinks. "For us that is very important that they intro- duce Sherry in a cocktail. This is a type of drink that can show the flexibility and taste of Sherry to people who otherwise might not order it on its own." Don Zoilo, one of three lines of Sherry produced by Bodegas Williams & Humbert, has done well in the American market. "They're a family of sherries that are 12 years old on average," Medina says. "This period of aging is very fascinat - ing. The Sherry has the characteristics of serious Sherry, with personality and concentration and terroir. But they pair with food well and they are easier to drink by themselves than a very old Sherry." Williams & Humbert employs solera, an aging method in which small amounts of younger wines are blended in barrel with more mature wines in a process that happens once each year. Solera means "on the ground" in Spanish. The term refers to the lowest level of the set of barrels, which contain the oldest mixtures. Traces of the very first Sherry placed in the solera could linger for many decades, adding depth and unique flavor traces even after 50 cycles or more. "This system is very important for maintaining quality and consistency," Medina says. "For example, if we have a har - vest with a high concentration of sugar, with solera we can make everything more homogeneous. Over time, the wines develop a more refined character and complexity." The solera method is only as good as the underlying qual- ity of its product, and in this regard William & Humbert is particularly fortunate because of its location in the Jerez de la Frontera region, Medina says. "Here we have a very special type of soil with a high concentration of calcium carbonate that gives to the vineyard a very high-mineral character. We are also close to the ocean, with means very fresh winds. The climate and the soil are perfect." Medina suggests that sommeliers should keep their explanations of Sherry to a minimum. Instead of explaining classifications or the solera method, "explain the taste profile in a few words then suggest pairings to make things easy." Medina gave a few suggestions recently to Sherry review website SherryNotes: "Dry wines are great as an aperitif, so I would pick a Fino Pando or the Amontillado 12 Years from the W&H Collection/Don Zoilo series. During meals, all types of Sherry have their place. And towards the evening I really enjoy a palo cortado like the VOS Dos Cortados, an Amontillado like the VORS Jalifa or our Oloroso 12 Year Old." The most important message sommeliers can impart about Sherry, Medina says, is that it's versatile. "Sherry works for so many occasions and so many pairings. It always sur - prises people." Williams & Humbert Sherries are imported by Palm Bay International. Beverage Director Greg Bryson reports that Dry Sack Solera Especial 15 Year Old Oloroso Sherry is a hit at The Wallace in L.A. foodie enclave Culver City, where it is served by the glass. "One customer ordered it and requested that I come to their table," says Bryson. "They liked the Dry Sack 15 so much they wanted to purchase an entire bottle!" Bryson also notes that Dry Sack 15 offers "amazing value— anyone who knows Sherry knows what a value it is." Byson also uses Dry Sack 15 in one of his signature cocktails, the Gluten Free and Vegan, where it is mixed with The Irishman Irish Whiskey and French aperitif Byrrh: "Dry Sack 15 really makes my cocktail because you can smell the raisins." These sentiments are happily echoed by The Wallace's General Manager, Brian Phu, who explains, "The Dry Sack Solera Especial 15 Year Old Oloroso adds something nice to our beverage program on both the spirits and the wine side. It is delicious as a substitute for bourbon when mak - ing a Manhattan, and it is a natural fit on our dessert list." Particularly this time of year when sweet dishes are primar- ily driven by spice and raisin flavor profiles. DRY SACK SOLERA ESPECIAL 15 YEAR OLD OLOROSO IN ACTION Brian Phu, General Manager of The Wallace in Los Angeles, is a fan of the Williams & Humbert Dry Sack Solera Especial 15 Year Old Oloroso Sherry.