CDG - The Costume Designer

Winter 2016

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6 The Costume Designer Winter 2016 EDITOR'S NOTE Costume Designer Ellen Mirojnick's oeuvre has moved mas- terfully through periods and personalities, never favoring one style over another. One might say her work defies labels. But the exactitude and ease of her designs do not sacrifice excitement for subtlety. When brainstorming how to photograph her for our winter cover story, there was only one aspect of her work that permitted me to draw a through line. The color white has often been chosen as the unlikely, but perfect foil for a strong character. Think Michael Douglas as Liberace in Behind the Candelabra, Audrey Hepburn in Always, Glenn Close in Fatal Attraction, Sharon Stone in Basic Instinct, and of course, the white boots worn by Clive Owen as Dr. John W. Thackery in The Knick. Intrigued by Ellen's use of white, I asked her longtime friend, photog- rapher Rachel Hudgins, to capture her using this idea as inspiration. Ellen has also been kind enough to share her director lookbook for The Knick with us. A glimpse of her mind at work is riveting, as the world she has created hangs in the margins between the paintings, fabric swatches, and research photographs. This year we spoke to our award nominees regarding which of their costumes were the most iconic. This is a tricky question because designers rarely have time to reflect upon their work as they are constantly in the midst of it. It is only through the crucible of time and the context of history that alchemy occurs lifting the icons into their frames. But, I couldn't resist seeing and hearing what was most iconic to them, and dear reader, I think you will find their answers are both fascinating and surprising. To those audience members who persist with the notion that only the fantastical Costume Design is worthy of awarding, I assert that there is as much design in the perfect leather jacket as there is in a frock coat. As always, I invite you to look more closely. Volume of fabric does not create a memorable character. Instead, he or she is culled from psychological insights expressed in well-chosen seams and details. They say eyes are the windows to the soul, but I argue that clothes are. Congratulations to our nominees. Anna Wyckoff EDITOR IN CHIEF Anna Wyckoff ASSOCIATE EDITORS Bonnie Nipar Christine Cover Ferro PRESIDENT Salvador Perez VICE PRESIDENT Cate Adair SECRETARY Ivy Thaide TREASURER Nanrose Buchman EXECUTIVE BOARD Mary Vogt Christopher Lawrence Julie Weiss Mona May Phillip Boutté Jr. Costume Illustrators Representative Kristine Haag ACD Representative LABOR REPRESENTATIVES Betty Madden Sharon Day BOARD ALTERNATES Kristin Burke Jennifer Soulages Lyn Paolo Terry Gordon BOARD OF TRUSTEES Jacqueline Saint Anne Cliff Chally Barbara Inglehart ALTERNATE TRUSTEE Dorothy Amos EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR Rachael M. Stanley MEMBER SERVICES ADMINISTRATOR Suzanne Huntington RECEPTIONIST/SECRETARY Cecilia Granados PUBLISHER IngleDodd Media ADVERTISING 310.207.4410 … Each category of Costume Design should be judged equally. Much like dramatic acting is different from comedic acting, they are separate, but equal art forms. " " –CDG President Salvador Perez

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