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Perhaps no other winery better embodies this farming philosophy than Mount Veeder Winery. Founded in the early 1970s by Michael and Arlene Bernstein, the winery today is owned by Constellation Brands and managed by Janet Myers, who is also Director of Winemaking. Myers is one of the most unassuming and gra- cious winemakers that I have ever met in Napa Valley; her humility belies her formidable educa- tion, tremendous knowledge and experience. Myers and Vineyard Manager Matt Ashby farm their vineyards with great care and attention. Of the 120 acres of land that Mount Veeder Winery owns on the mountain, only 45 are planted under vines, on three main parcels. Both Myers and Ashby recognize that number is the maximum for their holdings. The vineyards are planted between 1,000 and 1,600 feet in elevation on a wide variety of aspects and exposures. Careful examination of the three vineyard parcels reveals incredibly complex soils and a wide variation of vigor. In some areas, plants yield a mere 1.5 tons per acre. The vineyards are planted with the five red Bordeaux varieties, all of which respond to any given vintage differently. This makes Ashby's job in the vineyards challenging and adaptive and Myers's work in the winery a veritable scientific and artistic endeavor. The results of this passionate perseverance speak for themselves. The wines of Mount Veeder Winery are consistently fine; they maintain the full flavors, power and tannins of their mountain terroir, but Myers's approach is one of restraint and balance. Her wines are bold yet elegant, savory yet equalized with fruit; they all maintain freshness, possess moderate alcohol levels and deliver long, resonant finishes. PHOTO COURTESY OF MOUNT VEEDER WINERY PHOTO COURTESY OF MOUNT VEEDER WINERY Tasting Highlights Mount Veeder Winery 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($44) Classic mountain Cabernet Sauvignon from an exceptional vintage. Aromas of black and blueberries, plum and earth mingle with restrained oak. The palate is beautifully balanced with dry and fruity flavors and a lingering finish. This wine has always been a profound value. Mount Veeder Winery 2012 Cabernet Franc, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley ($50) Gorgeously colored with a purple hue, this outstanding Cabernet Franc is expressive like no other. The nose is effusive with violet, fresh fig, beet and spice. On the palate, the fruit/earth balance harmonizes with complex flavors of anise and vanilla. A hint of sage comes through in the flavors; perhaps a Franc characteristic of Mount Veeder. A mere 200 cases are produced of this stellar wine. Mount Veeder Winery 2012 Mount Veeder Reserve, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley ($90) Deeply colored ruby red with aromas of cassis, blackberry, sage, cocoa and spice, this robust blend is full-bodied, structured, and profoundly flavorful. The palate bursts with dark plum and fig, integrated oak and a savory-spicy flavor. The tannins are firm yet balanced, contributing to the velvety texture. Although youthful, this great wine drinks well now yet will surely continue to age and develop further complexity. Mount Veeder Winery 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosenquist Vineyard, Mount Veeder, Napa Valley ($100) This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the prized parcel called Rosenquist is an outstanding and complete wine. The color and robe alone are profound. The nose is a beguiling mix of cassis, earth, subtle smoke, and spice. On the palate the wine delivers full-bodied intensity, yet maintains an elevated level of acidity as well as integrated tannins in all of its richness. It is a magnificent Cabernet Sauvignon. One for the connoisseur and for the ages. Mount Veeder Winery 2007 Reserve, Napa Valley ($140/ available for purchase in the tasting room) Splendid showing of an evolving wine; it is maintaining both fruit and mountain tannins. The aroma presents anise and dates and leather and smoky spice; there is a genuine savory quality to the wine. It also hints at the mountain herb of sage. The wine is aging beautifully and will continue to evolve. It is demonstra- tive of how cooler climate and mountain tannins contribute to the longevity of age-worthy varietals like Cabernet Sauvignon. It is also a testament to the grower (Matt) and winemaker (Janet). Bravo to a dream team! Janet Myers, Director of Winemaking, man- ages Mount Veeder Winery. january-february 2016 / the tasting panel / 83