Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/628173
1 10 / the tasting panel / january-february 2016 GIN-UARY STAYING TRUE WITH TRU ORGANIC GIN As bartenders have plumbed the history of cocktail making for inspiration and lost techniques, craft distillers have done the same with spirits. LA-based Greenbar, one of America's oldest craft distilleries, went all the way back to the Renaissance to learn how to make its TRU organic gin. To what end, besides curiosity? "Redistilled, London-dry style gins all too often get lost in rich cocktails, like Negronis and garden-to-glass, because they're 90% aroma, 10% flavor" notes Melkon Khosrovian, co-founder and spirits maker at Greenbar. "A Reneissance-style gin like TRU, which contains much more flavor, can work better in complex cocktails." The gin is handcrafted in California using techniques created by Renaissance-era doctors who steeped juniper berries, roots and herbs in alcohol to make stomach medicine. TRU is made from organic wheat and 14 select botanicals, including whole juniper berries, fresh lavender, cardamom, chamomile and star anise. The highly aromatic botanicals are macer- ated in wheat neutral spirits for up to two months prior to filtering and bottling at 42% alcohol (84 proof). Unlike most gins, TRU is distilled only once, prior to being steeped with botanicals, which accounts for its striking, reddish/amber appearance. Within minutes of the initial pour, the gin is brimming with the aromas of juniper and citrus in a virtual dead heat. Slowly, but surely the aromas of the supporting cast come forward. Its entry is warm, but not excessively so. The pal- ate's opening salvo is loaded with the flavors of cinnamon, nutmeg, anise, cloves and cardamom. The lingering fade is awash with spice and pine. There is a freshness to this gin that is exciting and laudable. (SRP $34.99) GREENBAR CRAFT DISTILLERY Trailblazing Citadelle is handcrafted by Maison Ferrand, one of France's most renowned producers of Cognacs, liqueurs and fine spirits. The gin is triple-distilled in small batches in traditional copper alembic stills from wheat and spring water sourced from the famed Angeac Champagne Springs in Cognac. It's made according to a centuries-old recipe that combines a staggering 19 botanicals and aromatics sourced from four continents. Balancing these exotic ingredients—a recipe that includes French juniper, Moroccan coriander, Spanish lemon peels, Indian cardamom and cassia bark from Indochina—is a daunting challenge, yet one masterfully accomplished in this gin. It is bottled at 44% alcohol (88 proof). Citadelle is a highly aromatic spirit with a marvelously distinctive taste. It has pristine clarity, a satiny textured, medium-weight body and a juniper-forward nose with wafts of citrus zest, flora and spice. Its aromatic signature is well worth the price of admission. The entry is spicy warm as it quickly expands filling the mouth with an impeccably balanced offering of earthy, fruity and herbal flavors. The dry finish is long and spicy. "We make Citadelle in small pot stills, which lets us achieve a precise taste in our distillate and produces a mouthfeel that can only be obtained from this type of equipment. The downside of this is that it takes more than 14 hours to make a mere thousand liters of Citadelle Gin," says Guillaume Lamy, Vice President of Maison Ferrand, Americas. "Five years ago, we were using two pot stills during the summer for our world production needs of Citadelle. As of this past summer, we used seven of them. We have 11 stills in our distillery so we still have room to grow. That said, we will never increase the size of production batch, as this guarantees the quality of the spirit." (SRP $24.99) MAISON FERRAND, AMERICAS BREAKING NEW GROUND WITH CITADELLE GIN Indian cardamom and cassia bark from Indochina—is a daunting challenge, yet one masterfully Citadelle is a highly aromatic spirit with a marvelously distinctive taste. It has pristine clarity, a Citadelle is a highly aromatic spirit with a marvelously distinctive taste. It has pristine clarity, a Citadelle is a highly aromatic spirit with a marvelously distinctive taste. It has pristine clarity, a Indian cardamom and cassia bark from Indochina—is a daunting challenge, yet one masterfully Indian cardamom and cassia bark from Indochina—is a daunting challenge, yet one masterfully Indian cardamom and cassia bark from Indochina—is a daunting challenge, yet one masterfully Indian cardamom and cassia bark from Indochina—is a daunting challenge, yet one masterfully Indian cardamom and cassia bark from Indochina—is a daunting challenge, yet one masterfully Citadelle is a highly aromatic spirit with a marvelously distinctive taste. It has pristine clarity, a distilleries, went all the way back to the Renaissance to learn how to make its TRU organic gin. To distilleries, went all the way back to the Renaissance to learn how to make its TRU organic gin. To garden-to-glass, because they're 90% aroma, 10% flavor" notes Melkon Khosrovian, co-founder garden-to-glass, because they're 90% aroma, 10% flavor" notes Melkon Khosrovian, co-founder The gin is handcrafted in California using techniques created by Renaissance-era doctors who fresh lavender, cardamom, chamomile and star anise. The highly aromatic botanicals are macer ated in wheat neutral spirits for up to two months prior to filtering and bottling at 42% alcohol (84 Unlike most gins, TRU is distilled only once, prior to being steeped with botanicals, which accounts for its striking, reddish/amber appearance. Within minutes of the initial pour, the gin is brimming with the aromas of juniper and citrus in a virtual dead heat. Slowly, but surely the aromas of the supporting cast come forward. Its entry is warm, but not excessively so. The pal ate's opening salvo is loaded with the flavors of cinnamon, nutmeg, anise, cloves and cardamom. GREENBAR CRAFT DISTILLERY Trailblazing Citadelle is handcrafted by Maison Ferrand, one of France's most renowned Trailblazing Citadelle is handcrafted by Maison Ferrand, one of France's most renowned producers of Cognacs, liqueurs and fine spirits. The gin is triple-distilled in small batches in traditional copper alembic stills from wheat and spring water sourced from the famed Angeac Champagne Springs in Cognac. It's made according to a centuries-old recipe that combines a staggering 19 botanicals and aromatics sourced from four continents. Balancing these exotic staggering 19 botanicals and aromatics sourced from four continents. Balancing these exotic ingredients—a recipe that includes French juniper, Moroccan coriander, Spanish lemon peels, ingredients—a recipe that includes French juniper, Moroccan coriander, Spanish lemon peels, Indian cardamom and cassia bark from Indochina—is a daunting challenge, yet one masterfully accomplished in this gin. It is bottled at 44% alcohol (88 proof). Citadelle is a highly aromatic spirit with a marvelously distinctive taste. It has pristine clarity, a satiny textured, medium-weight body and a juniper-forward nose with wafts of citrus zest, flora and spice. Its aromatic signature is well worth the price of admission. The entry is spicy warm as it quickly expands filling the mouth with an impeccably balanced offering of earthy, fruity and "We make Citadelle in small pot stills, which lets us achieve a precise taste in our distillate and produces a mouthfeel that can only be obtained from this type of equipment. The downside of this is that it takes more than 14 hours to make a mere thousand liters of Citadelle Gin," says Guillaume Lamy, Vice President of Maison Ferrand, Americas. "Five years ago, we were using two pot stills during the summer for our world production needs of Citadelle. As of this past summer, we used seven of them. We have 11 stills in our distillery so we still have room to grow. That said, we will never increase the size of production batch, as this guarantees the quality of CITADELLE GIN CITADELLE GIN CITADELLE GIN