The Tasting Panel magazine

January 2016

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january-february 2016  /  the tasting panel  /  103 Kitá 2013 "Spe'y," Camp 4 Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley ($30) In the Chumash tribe's native Samala language, the Kitá brand is named after the oak tree, believed to be a symbol of strength and nourishment, while Spe'y means flower. The blend of 58% Grenache, 21% Syrah, 21% Carignane carries strength in its meatiness—in taste, color and texture—and is both alluring and deep. Cherry tannins, juicy plum, beef blood, strawberry, nutmeg and graphite are components of this masterfully produced Central Coast wine. 94 CHUMASH CELLARS Silver Trident Winery 2014 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast ($28) Alive with wet stoniness, sage and thyme, which provide an underlying gravitas. The raspberry and melons seem fresh-picked, with a kiss of lanolin. 91 Kenwood 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon, Jack London Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain, Sonoma County ($35) Sage and mountain heather are aromatic flirts and the lush ripeness that follows is endearing with plum and cassis. Equally chewy and mouth- watering, meaty aromas and flavors waft as iron and dusty tannins complete the pleasing stimulation. 94 PERNOD RICARD USA Famiglia Marrone 2009 "Passione," Langhe DOC, Italy ($30) Grilled meat (osso buco?) is apparent on the nose, whetting the appetite immediately with big, rich, muscular aromas. The palate becomes more perfumed with an array of blue flowers and jasmine. Earthy, ripe plums are plentiful and the texture has a velvet touch. A blend of 60% Nebbiolo and 40% Barbera, its Old World acidity stays steady and dry tannins keep it begging for food. This wine received a Double Gold at the 2013 WSWA Wine Tasting Competition. 93 ARCTIC WINES Vie 2012 "L'Imaginaire" Grenache, Santa Barbara County ($39) It is a scent of caramel apple pie that drifts up unexpect- edly from the glass—while the first sip is a complex and pretty raspberry bramble, spiced with sweet cinnamon. The milk chocolate notes spread generously through the finish. 89 J Vineyards 2013 Estate Grown Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($40) It's all about the base: delicious, recognizable Pinot perfume, heady with notes of Gruyere, strawberries and rhubarb. Extroverted espresso- licorice tannins make for a chewy sipper. Each vineyard (five estate vineyards), block and clone was kept separate before blending, for a total of 92 different lots. Aged for nine months in French oak. 92 E&J GALLO Signorello Estate 2012 Padrone, Napa Valley ($175) Grown in the classic 2012 vintage, this unfiltered red (91% Cabernet Sauvignon & 9% Cabernet Franc) is dedicated to winery founder Ray Signorello, Sr. Grapes are grown on a rocky hillside vineyard along the Silverado Trail sourced from one of the oldest blocks on the estate. Big notes of grilled meat and black olive on the nose leads to an earthy, silken road of melted dark chocolate, blackberry, dusty rose petals and a startling whoosh of creaminess that coats the mouth with plums and aplomb. 96 Deborah Brenner, founder of Women of the Vine, with Meridith May. The 2nd Annual Symposium happens April 4–6 in Napa. PHOTO: ALEXANDER RUBIN

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