Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/611718
december 2015 / the tasting panel / 77 Regional influences get even more specific: Just three distill- ers are near Islay's southern shore. Big Atlantic storms make landfall there, bringing rain, humidity and cold air. The peat and barley at Laphroaig is therefore wetter than at distilleries just a few miles north. That encourages a longer, cooler drying period over the peat fires. Laphroaig takes this a step further, allowing their peat to burn down before spreading barley on the drying floor above. The low, smoldering heat means slow, gentle drying that richly infuses the malt with smoke, like beef brisket in a traditional Southern barbecue pit. The air is drier a few miles north at Bowmore. There, the malt- ing process is hotter and faster, though still using a traditional malting floor. The oldest Scotch distillery, founded in 1779, it is a standard-bearer for other traditions as well: hand-turning the malt and wooden wash back with native yeast fermentations. The locale and techniques are complementary, delivering a balanced, more delicately peated and less smoky Scotch. There are also historical reasons for differences between Scotches. While we actively seek out single malts today and revel in their individuality, the category didn't become widely popular until the late 1960s. Prior to that, single malts were made primarily for blending. The various single malts were tailored to their roles in the blends. Light scotches made up the majority of the volume, a little apple or peach here and a bit of lemon there. Powerful single malts, like Laphroig, were added sparingly to contribute richness and depth. History also led to one of the most unique aspects of Auchentoshan. In a nod to the style of Irish whiskey, which shared many techniques when Scotch whisky production was first legal- ized in 1823, it is triple-distilled. Very unusual for Scotch today, triple distillation leads to a smooth, delicate and fruity whisky. Auchentoshan Three Wood, their first big success and still an iconic whisky, is aged in a combination of bourbon, oloroso and PX barrels. The color is dark mahogany with Cinnabon aromatics. There are sweet cinnamon, wholewheat bread, vanilla, caramel, apple and cherry, but not a trace of smoke or peat. Bowmore 15 Year Darkest Sherry Cask is medium-mahogany in color with a lightly smoky nose of cherries, cigar box and flow- ers, like the bowl of lightly used tobacco pipe. This is a Scotch gorgeous to eye, nose and palate. Laphroaig 10 Year Old is aged primarily in bourbon barrels is the basis for all of that distillery's bottlings. It is a perennial winner of top awards. Aromas of smoke, peat, seaweed and seasoned wood jump from the glass. They are joined by sweet charcoal and briny minerality on the palate. PHOTO: NINO ADONIS Simon Brooking, Master Ambassador for Beam Suntory.