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Flavor-Mapping The winemaking team at Constellation New Zealand has worked to identify specifi c fl avor markers from their sites in each sub-region which they use to build complexity in blended Sauvignon Blancs such as that produced by wine- maker Anthony Walkenhorst at Kim Crawford. Walkenhorst relies on fruit from Wairau and Awatere Valleys to create a blend that showcases the passion fruit, citrus, ripe stone fruit and herbaceousness attributed to these areas. The winery's newest releases—Kim Crawford SP Spitfi re Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and Rise-and-Shine Creek Cental Otago Pinot Noir—are based on small parcels selected from the region's top sites. "These wines differ from our blended wines in that they are vintage-driven and designed to age," says Walkenhorst. In the Awatere, the focus shifts to richer, riper styles of Sauvignon Blanc and to Pinot Noir. At the mouth of Awatere, in sight of Cloudy Bay, is the stunning Castle Cliffs vineyard, the source for Nobilo's mineral-driven Icon wines made by head winemaker Dave Edmonds. "These rich, complex wines are achieved in a large part by limiting vigor," says Edmonds. "We've made a shift from cane to spur pruning that reduces yields and increases complexity in the wines." Central Otago has become synonymous with New Zealand Pinot Noir. In Search of Pinotosity The majority of New Zealand's Pinot Noir, about 70 percent, is grown in sub-regions of Marlborough and Central Otago. In Wairau, at Huia Vineyards, winemaker Claire Allen grows organic Pinot Noir on diverse alluvial and clay loam soils. "It has taken us ten years to get fi nesse from the [Pinot Noir] vines and to produce wines that express mineral- ity and have weighty tannins without being over-extracted." At Nobilo, Edmonds sources Pinot Noir from warm, up-valley Awatere sites and fruit from Castle Cliffs' South Bank sites makes a complex Drylands Pinot Noir that shows dried herbs, black cherry and rich notes of cocoa and dark chocolate. Just as Marlborough is syn- onymous with Sauvignon Blanc, Central Otago, the extreme wine-growing region at the southern end of the island, is where Pinot Noir reaches iconic status. Higher altitude sites, mica- and schist-based soils combined with a continental climate and short growing season result in Chardonnay and Pinot Gris with intense purity and fragrant, spicy Pinot Noir. Gibbston Valley is the coolest and wettest sub-region of Central Otago. Blending is key for Greg Hay at organic Peregrine Winery, which, in addition to its extensive portfo- lio, makes tiny quantities of the icon-status Pinnacle ($175 SRP) from Cromwell Basin and Gibbston sites. "Production costs for Central Otago producers have doubled since the power industry here was privatized," says Hay. Other producers, such as Nigel Greening at biodynamic Felton Road in Bannockburn, forgo blending and emphasize single- vineyard wines: "We're not working for consistency here; no human blending decisions go in to the program." Instead, Greening routinely blind-tastes lots to establish quality bench- marks for each vintage. Wine styles in Central Otago are being expanded by the development of newer, warmer regions like Bendigo, where vines are not yet ten years old, and Alexandra, where vines are still maturing. Bendigo, the region's warmest, earliest and most consistent site, is the source for Kim Crawford's Rise- and-Shine Creek Pinot Noir, where Walkenhorst conducted extensive trials with French oak to determine the right cooperage and toast to complement the rich, fruit-forward style of this warm region. A single-vineyard Pinot Noir from Central Otago producer Chard Farm. For Deborah Parker Wong's tasting notes on New Zealand wines, see www.tastingpanelmag.com. w IIF YOUR WINE COULD CHOOSE A GLASS IT WOULD BE RIEDEL. RIEDELOP.COM april 2012 / the tasting panel / 53