Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/61075
FROM THE EDITOR Organic Silliness Sometimes when you think you're helping yourself, you're really hurting yourself. A good example of this phenomenon is the recent ker- fuffle over the term "organic." The European Union, as of the 2012 harvest, is allowing their members to add up to 100 parts per million of sulfites (0.01%) to their wine and still be able to call it "organic." Sulfur dioxide occurs naturally during the fermentation process, but some wineries add more to combat oxidation and some microbial problems. Making large amounts of wine without the addition of sulfite is risky, since it can lead to spoilage and costly mistakes. The situation in the United States is different. A handful of small wineries who don't add sulfites have successfully cham- pioned the confusing and divisive policy of using two different label statements: "organic" for wines without any addition of sulfites and "made from organic grapes" for wines that do have the addition. The holier-than-thou attitude evidenced by this group of winer- ies is self-serving and counterproductive. By fragmenting the organic wine movement, they diminish it and cripple its potential for success in the general market. Consumers don't really know the difference between the two statements, but the "made from organic grapes" wines are not allowed to use the USDA organic seal. This, according to Paolo Bonetti, President of Organic Vintners, a Colorado importer, precludes more than 800 vintners around the world from entering the U.S. market with the USDA organic seal attached. Oddly enough, Demeter, the organization that certifies biody- namic wines—a discipline that is considerably more rigorous than "organic" farming—allows the addition of 100 parts per million of sulfites in wines defined as "biodynamic." More organic wines and wineries in the U.S. market would significantly boost the entire category, including the wineries that are fighting against including them. Why not let all wines made from organic grapes be called "organic" and let those who choose to add no additional sulfites also say that—"no additional sulfites"—on their labels? 4 / the tasting panel / april 2012 PHOTO: CATHY TWIGG-BLUMEL