Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/61075
APPELLATIONS X-Treme Terroir t STEEP COASTAL RIDGES DANGLING OFF A PRECIPICE HELP DEFINE A NEW CALIFORNIA AVA his month, the first publicly accessible wine tast- ing room on the Sonoma Coast opens—at Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery. What's inspiring about this is not just the celebration of the region's newest AVA, Fort Ross–Seaview, but the ability to witness views of the Pacific Ocean, forest and meadows from elevations that range from 920 to 1,800 feet above sea level. In January 2012, after a decade of research and a pile of paperwork, the Fort Ross-Seaview AVA—covering 27,500 acres—was granted. It seemed a no-brainer to area pioneers like Linda Schwartz, who made the first phone call to the TTB in 1999. "The area is distinctive and does not reflect the climate and growing conditions of the vast Sonoma Coast AVA in which the new Fort Ross-Seaview AVA is nested," Schwartz says. "Our vineyard is a mile from the Pacific with stunning elevations and an 180-degree view of the Pacific. The steep mountainside vineyards ripen above the fog line, with temperatures averaging between 55 and 85 degrees, a zone in which vines keep developing steadily. The resulting small bunches and low yields result in pure vibrant flavors in the grapes and, ultimately, in the wines." The diminutive yet dynamic Schwartz, a native of South Africa, is the owner of Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery (with husband Lester), sharing some of the most sought-after vinous real estate in the region with prestigious names in the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay game. Influenced by their heritage, the Schwartzes also decided to source Pinotage budwood from two top sources in South Africa, becoming the first private growers to import cuttings of this grape variety to the area. Their Fort Ross Pinotage is an homage: as deep and brooding as it is generous in fruit and plushness. —Meridith May 114 / the tasting panel / april 2012 PHOTO: ROBERT JANOVER