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Building a W hen the Healdsburg-based Simi Winery turned 135 years old last year, there was plenty to celebrate on both ends of the spectrum. On one side, you have a winery with a rich history. On the other, it's a winery that has earned a reputation for working with fruit from great vineyards, using innovative wine- making techniques to create a solid portfolio of high-quality wines designed to dazzle the senses. Founded by Italian immigrants Giuseppe and Pietro Simi in 1876, Simi is the longest continu- Legacy SONOMA'S VENERABLE SIMI WINERY TURNS 135 by Christopher Sawyer / photos by Drew Altizer This forethought saved the cellars when San Francisco's infamous earthquake decimated most the buildings in Healdsburg in 1906. The following decade, Isabelle faced Prohibition head-on when she applied, and was granted, a license to make sacramental wines. This strategy paid dividends at Repeal, when the winery had over 500,000 cases to sell to the thirsty American public. She also converted a 250,000-gallon redwood cask into a tasting room, making it the fi rst of its kind in California. Isabelle served as the head winemaker until she sold the winery to Alexander Valley grape grower Russell Green in 1970. When she died at the ripe age of 95 in 1981, Isabelle laid the groundwork for many other winemakers to come. Winemaker Zelma Long, who worked at Simi from 1979 to 1998, sips on classic vintage wine in the historic wine cellars. ously running winery in Sonoma County. The key link between the past and future is Isabelle Simi Haigh, Giuseppe's adventurous daughter, who took over the leadership role at the winery at the young age of 18 when her father and uncle both died of the lethal Spanish fl u in 1904. And she didn't take long to show her strengths. In the fi rst year, Isabelle expanded the cellars and reinforced the rock walls with steel bars. 60 / the tasting panel / april 2012 In contemporary times, the talented winemak- ers to keep the dream alive have included Mary Anne Graf, Zelma Long, Paul Hobbs, Nick Goldschmidt and the current team of Steve Reeder, Susan Lueker and Megan Schofi eld. Today, the winery owns 500 acres of vineyards in Alexander Valley and 100 acres in Russian River Valley. The investments include the pur- chase of the Landslide Vineyard in 1982, a presti- gious plot of land with a perfect combination of micro-climates and distinctive soil types used to grow full-bodied Bordeaux-style varietals. Many of the sites also feature tight spacing to optimize the control of each row, capturing the personality and style of the region where the grapes are grown. Furthermore, the winery has applied green and sustainable practices to the farming process as well. In the cellar, the philosophy is based on the art of blending and softening the tannins to the point of perfection. "Grow the grapes in the right location, focus on