The Tasting Panel magazine

April 2012

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SAN FRAN INSIDER Spring Has Sprung I Matthew Turner will open Dixie with Chef Joseph Humphrey. t's been warmer than average in Northern California, and some of San Francisco's best-known wine directors are turning up the heat in April with restaurant openings. Matthew Turner, who was head sommelier for the Michael Mina Group, and Michelin-starred Chef Joseph Humphrey will open the doors to Dixie in the gorgeous Presidio space that once housed Pres a Vi. In January, Humphrey test drove a sample menu along with wine pairings by Turner for two weeks at Guest Chef, the Rockridge full-service restaurant dedicated solely to pop ups. David Lynch, best known as the celebrated wine director at Quince, will open St. Vincent with Chef Bill Niles of Bar Tartine. During an interview in February, Lynch revealed the wine concept would be global with "every- thing under $20." Knowing Lynch's creativity, there are bound to be some pleasant surprises. Inspiration for the name St. Vincent came from various wine festivals in Burgundy, and Lynch is recycling much of the interior of what was formerly Heart Wine Bar to showcase his wine program. With entrees priced from $18 to $24, Dixie's lower check average and emphasis on Southern hospitality are designed for repeat business, and Turner's wine program reflects comfort as well. "Our goal is to offer something for everybody with an approachable list, 80 percent of which is sourced from the U.S., France and Spain, and a dynamic wine-by-the-glass program." Educational and wine trade events are slated for the restaurant's inviting private rooms. Danilo Drocco, winemaker for Fontanafredda, Langhe's largest con- tiguous estate, led a tasting at Spruce restaurant in February that included three 1996 vintages and a vertical featuring 1982, 1997 and 2000 Reserva wines. Drocco's use of extended maceration, often in excess of 40 days, 28 / the tasting panel / april 2012 A PAGE FROM DEBORAH PARKER WONG'S WINE ALMANAC is unique and results in aromatic wines of astounding finesse and complexity. The winery's history—which includes ownership by the first king of Italy, Vittorio Emanuele II, and the world's oldest bank until its purchase in 2008 by Eataly entrepreneur Oscar Farinetti—has not kept Fontanafredda from innovating. Drocco is now bottling a tasty '07 Barolo Serrlunga d'Alba in sizes based on the Italian osteria system: half-liter (two quarti- nos), one liter and 1.5 liters. Australian winegrower Robert Oatley, who has long marketed his Wild Oats off-premise brand at home, C M Y CM MY CY CMY K Danilo Drocco of Fontanafredda. has now secured the U.S. rights to the name, which was once owned by Whole Foods. The venerable producer, whose Australian portfolio was introduced to the U.S. in 2008, is now expanding his holdings with the planned acquisition of Foppiano Vineyards in Sonoma's Russian River Valley and is said to be shopping for wineries in Paso Robles and Lodi. Stay tuned! PHOTO: DEBORAH PARKER WONG PHOTO: DEBORAH PARKER WONG

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