The Tasting Panel magazine

April 2012

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Alamos 2010 Red Blend, Mendoza, Argentina ($13) Malbec, Bonarda and Tempranillo meld to form a purple- brown mass of dark fl owers, beef jus and grape Kool-Aid that keeps building to a high, long plateau. E&J GALLO Donelan 2009 Cuvee Moriah, Sonoma County ($42) Raspberry tinged, with violets and lavender on the nose fol- lowed by bright red cherry, black olive and dark chocolate that bring it all to a harmonious conclusion. Maryhill 2010 Winemaker's Red, Columbia Valley, Washington ($15) Ruby-red in hue, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc smells of elderberry and cherry compote but tastes of roasted red pep- per and cherry pie fi lling, complete with baked crust. Terra d'Oro 2008 Forte, California ($28) Terra d'Oro's Forte red blend (60% Amador County Sangiovese and 40% Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon) is colored a brick red. The nose bleeds graphite and blackberry liqueur, while the full, fresh fi nish explodes with cocoa powder, raspberry, cherry and acorn squash. TFE WINES Lucas & Lewellen 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Cote del Sol, Santa Barbara County ($32) This beauty from Santa Barbara County is juicy, spicy and jammy, probably because of the small amount of Syrah that is added to the bins and then co-fermented with the Cabernet. There's enough Cabernet to put the varietal on the label, which may confuse some, but the blend itself is sublime. Churchill's NV Tawny Porto 10 Years Old, Portugal ($33) Blended from Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca and Tinta Francisca grapes. Hued a reddish walnut and brings aromas of crushed dates, a hint of mint and milk sugar to a red berry palate that's high intensity and goes the distance. FREDERICK WILDMAN & SONS Some Major Blended Wine Regions and Styles Although blends these days can range from two-grape duets to multi-variety mélanges, these historically-defi ned regions and styles continue to bear the standard for blended wines. BORDEAUX The only grapes allowed for use in true Bordeaux from the region of the same name in France are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Carmenère and Cabernet Franc. Wineries gener- ally choose two to three different grapes from the approved list but rarely use all six. Winemakers all over the world copy this style via blends known generically as "Bordeaux blends" or by the propri- etary term Meritage (see below). MERITAGE The word Meritage is itself a blend of the words merit and heritage and is a trademarked name referring to Bordeaux-style blends made outside Bordeaux. Just as with French counterparts, there are labeling rules. The vintner must produce 25,000 cases or less per vintage of a high-quality wine. The winery must also be a member of the Meritage Alliance (www.meritagealliance.com) in order to use the name on the label. At fi rst limited to American wineries, the Alliance now has members in Israel, Mexico, Argentina, Australia and even France. SUPER TUSCANS Italy has strict wine blending regulations pro- mulgated by Denominazione di Origine Controlla e Garantita (DOCG) legislation. In the 1970s some Tuscan producers broke those rules by using French grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Ironically, DOCG rules put these Super Tuscan wines—some of Italy's priciest—within the lowest quality category because they did not conform to regulations. Eventually a new designation, the Indicazione Geografi ca Tipica (IGT), came into being. Today, Super Tuscans can be found in a wide range of prices. RHÔNE-STYLE BLENDS France's Rhône Valley produces sublime red and white blends. Primary grapes include Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault and Viognier. The Rhône is divided into sub-regions that all have their own blends, including Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Grenache- based with many other contributors), Côtes du Rhône (reds and whites made from spicy, rustic fruit), and Côte-Rôtie (a blend of fragrant white Viognier and spicy red Syrah). Other regions with similar terroirs also combine these grapes in the same style. april 2012 / the tasting panel / 129

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