Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/599676
f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 1 5 | 9 7 NEARLY EIGHT YEARS AGO, I GAVE UP eating meat and fish, and personally, the transition to a vegetarian diet wasn't all that difficult. Sure, my choices on most menus have dwindled, but chefs still surprise me time and time again with interesting choices made for us herbivores. And it's not just the plant eaters that these chefs have embraced—all sorts of dietary restrictions and aversions are being catered to at restaurants across the U.S. This column will honor those individuals who are turning limitations into magical dishes for the dining impaired. Overseeing the seasonal menu of Colonie in Brooklyn, NY, is Chef Andrew Whitcomb, who began his career at a restaurant in the countryside of Maine. These rural beginnings taught him the importance of cultivating relationships with local food providers. While his surroundings in the Big Apple are unrecognizable compared to those in the Pine Tree State, Whitcomb has held onto his belief that the bond between farmers and chefs should be strong: "My suppliers are some of my best friends. We are all about chasing deliciousness. We eat the raw ingredient together and talk about the flavor; then, I usually come up with a bunch of ways to use that ingredient. I also like to sit down with a few of them and pick out seeds—or if I find an interested seed, I will give it to them to grow for me." Making the most out of the fruits (and vegetables) of this labor, Chef Whitcomb uses sustain- able cooking practices by utilizing every part of the produce possible. Instead of tossing them in the trash, he turns the top parts of strawberries into jam, he wraps fish and other delicate items in corn husks, and he dries and grinds the skins of onions, shallots, and other alliums to make spices. These environmentally friendly methods align with what he puts on the menu at Colonie. He explains: "I think everyone should eat more veggies, more greens, and less meat. Vegetables are more nutrient-rich and, from a farming aspect, more sustainable. We can produce more plant matter on a square acre of land than we can us- ing the same acre for beef or pork." Allowing these fruits and veggies to become the stars of the show, Witcomb keeps his dishes simple, but vegeta- ble-focused. While the end product might be simple, they are by no means boring—the menu consists of items like grilled and pickled watermelon, dressed with chive blos- som vinegar; heirloom tomatoes, marinated with ramp and Sherry vinegar; and strangoloni with corn, summer squash and shelling bean. Proving his "simple is best" philosophy, his favorite offering—both to make and to eat—is the tagliatelli cacio e pepe, made with hand-rolled noodles, butter, par- mesan and black pepper. The never-ending search for new flavors leads Whitcomb to feature some unusual ingredients on the menu. These rare unfamiliar names have the potential to ostracize some guests, but he counteracts that possibility by playing with the familiar, noting: "I use variety as a form of uniqueness. Everyone knows of a Thai chili, but what about the Prairie Fire chili? I like putting a name to a product. It's not just a cherry tomato—it is a sun gold. Usually, with the name comes a story, and I get the opportunity to open up about why that particular ingredient is so special." This conversation will not only teach the patron about what's on the plate, but will also connect them to the people who grow the produce. And that's one of his favorite aspects of his job—"I love being able to bridge the gap from farmer to guest and bring the loop full circle." Showcasing the flavors without letting one ingredient over power another, his respect for his suppliers and their products can be tasted in everything he prepares for the restaurant, and his willingness to experiment with non- meat dishes proves that carnivores don't get to have all of the fun; we vegetarians can enjoy a groundbreaking meal with the best of them. "A CHALLENGE ONLY BECOMES AN OBSTACLE WHEN YOU BOW TO IT." — RAY DAVIS corn husks, and he dries and grinds the skins of onions, shallots, and other alliums to make spices. These environmentally friendly methods align with what he puts on the menu at Colonie. He explains: "I think everyone should eat more veggies, more greens, and less meat. Vegetables are more nutrient-rich and, from a farming aspect, more sustainable. We can produce more plant matter on a square acre of land than we can us ing the same acre for beef or pork." Allowing these fruits and veggies to become the stars of the show, Witcomb keeps his dishes simple, but vegeta ble-focused. While the end product might be simple, they are by no means boring—the menu consists of items like grilled and pickled watermelon, dressed with chive blos H e i rl o o m t om a t oe s m a rin a t e d with ra m p a nd S herr y v i n e ga r , S tr oz z a p reti wi t h l u m p cr a b, B u d ap est pep pe r, o nio n con f t a nd t o ast ed b r e a d cr u m b . to p ped w i t h sa v or y c h i v es a n d c a p e rs. G a rlic o i l t oa s t e d s o ur d o ug h a nd s t r a cci a tel la . B u tt e r l et t uce w i t h C ae sa r dr e ss i ng , f r i e d p i c k l e s a n d s c a l l i o ns . eating meat and fish, and personally, the transition to a vegetarian diet wasn't all that difficult. Sure, my choices on most menus have dwindled, but chefs still surprise me time and time again with interesting choices made for us herbivores. And it's not just the plant eaters that these chefs have embraced—all sorts of dietary restrictions and aversions are being catered to at restaurants across the U.S. This column will honor those individuals who are turning limitations into magical dishes for the dining impaired. som vinegar; heirloom tomatoes, marinated with ramp and Sherry vinegar; and strangoloni with corn, summer squash and shelling bean. Proving his "simple is best" philosophy, his favorite offering—both to make and to eat—is the tagliatelli WHEN YOU BOW TO IT." — RAY DAVIS G r ill e d a nd p ic kl e d water m elon dre ss e d w it h ch ive bl o so m v in eg a r, sitting und e r Buda p e s t p e p per , coo m e rsd a le f r o m Bo nn ie v iew Farm , j al ap eño and a rugu l a. ■cr