The Clever Root

Fall / Winter 2015

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5 6 | t h e c l e v e r r o o t PHOTO: JEREMY BALL moving out to the Bay Area in 1989. Patterson opened his first restaurant, Babette's, in Sonoma, CA, at the age of 25, and what follows over the course of the next 21 years is a storied list of restaurants opened (includ- ing the handful of restaurants that make up the Daniel Patterson Group- Coi, Alta CA, Aster, PB, and Haven), restaurants closed (Babette's, Elizabeth Daniel, and Frisson), and accolades—a James Beard award for his restaurant Elizabeth Daniel (now shuttered) in 2001, and two Michelin stars and four stars from the San Francisco Chronicle for Coi (still very much open) to name a few. Patterson himself has been nominated six times for the James Beard's Best Chef: Pacific (now West) category (taking home the win in 2014). We pause for a moment between shots of Daniel in the dining room in his chef coat and Daniel on the roof sporting a LocoL tee (more on that in a minute). I ask what has changed for him over the years as a chef and what has remained constant; "I definitely have the same enthusiasm and passion for what I get to do. Over time I've gotten more experienced, I understand how to cook better," he smiles, "but there are always things that surprise me; I am still learning. There is never a point where you feel like you know enough." Changing of the Guard This year it was announced that Patterson would hand over the reins of the Coi kitchen to Matthew Kirkley, formerly of L2O in Chicago. Kirkley is currently at Coi, working with Patterson and the team for the next few months until the transition is complete in January. While this seems like a big change, what Patterson is honestly addressing is the natural progression that happens in most "establishment" restaurants: Chef launches restaurant, drives it to fame and achieve- ment, hires amazing and talented support staff, realizes that the restaurant is running well, becomes "Executive Chef" and goes to work on other projects. The difference here is that Patterson has expressed his desire not to be "Chef in name only" at Coi. By passing the torch to Kirkley, he is entrusting the work he began at Coi to a young and talented new set of eyes, ears, and sensibilities, allowing him to spend more time with his wife and two young children, and his multitude of other projects. Indeed, stepping away from the line at Coi opens up Patterson's dance card, but only just a bit. What is Chef Patterson doing with this iota of spare time? Changing the world, of course. In a tiny greenhouse on the roof of the building the houses Coi, Patterson and his staff grow micro greens and edible flowers used in many of the restaurant's dishes.

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