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f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 1 5 | 4 7 plete without considering oyster liquor—the last bit of juice that runs out of the mollusk that makes the finish, and which can express lemon, creaminess, metallic, melon or cucumber. Brown compares that with Chablis. "Similarly with wine, when you're not analyzing the oyster and just enjoying it, you get the arc of flavors." Just a few blocks away at the recently opened Wine Disciples, Chef Brian Leth stays as local as possible, keeping East Coast oysters on the menu. "They taste better when they're closer," he says, noting that oysters from further regions can spawn and "get weird" or taste musty and off-putting. In addition to classic oysters, he queries his sup- pliers for emerging strains, or what's good this week, and he keeps it simple. "I'm not a big fan of accoutrements in general; these oysters can stand on their own," Leth says. "If you have a dozen different oysters and you put mi- gnonette on them, they'll all taste like mignonette." And that can interfere with the wine pairing, notes proprietor Michael Coll who manages the list at the restaurant and runs the next- door sister wine shop. Like Block and Brown, Coll suggests a range of Chablis styles with oysters, rang- ing from mineral-driven and flinty Chablis to one with a richer palate. "The fatter and fruitier the oyster, the same you'll go up in flavor with wine," he says. "If you have a fruitier, meatier oyster, an older Chablis would give it a good foundation on the palate. "But a briny, cool–climate oyster requires some aggression in acidity," he explained. "When it's super briny you'll want something with more citrus qualities." But in the end, he says, "I think pair- ing is a simple thing and people try to complicate it." His advice: "Keep it simple, not overly executed, and create a nice progression with the rest of the meal." PHOTO: DOUG YOUNG PHOTO: DOUG YOUNG PHOTO: DOUG YOUNG Chef Brian Leth stays as local as possible when sourcing oysters for Wine Disciples in New York City. The fa`er and fruitier mhe oyster, mhe same you'll go up in flavor with wine . . . a briny, cool-climate oyster requires some aggres- sion in acidity." Wine Director Michael Coll of Wine Disciples in New York City. " ■cr