The Clever Root

Fall / Winter 2015

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f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 1 5 | 3 3 Just Add Meat Inventive house-made charcuterie scrubbed away with dry Lambrusco gives guests a lot to chew on at this meat-centric D.C. venue. by Kelly A. Magyarics / photos by Greg Powers Just Add Hip Sips— I t's the 8:30 p.m. in the middle of the restaurant's wildly popu- lar second-annual Lambrusco Week, and Wine Director Brent Kroll is working the floor, fielding questions and pouring tastes of Emilia-Romagna's fizzy native juice. During seven days in August, carnivo- rous oenophiles at the 100-seat restaurant The Partisan can order three, six, or ten, three-ounce pours of the crimson bubbly, each uniquely paired with charcuterie made-in-house at the adjacent Red Apron Butchery by Chefs Nathan Anda and Ed Witt. This isn't the treacly, cloying red sparkling jug wine that gave Lambrusco a bad rap, though. Modern versions are unbelievably food friendly options to start off the night—or to sip all evening with everything from pâté to pork belly—and Kroll is championing the cause. "What is inspiring me right now is the response that Lambrusco has received," he says. "I wanted to show respect to a beverage that doesn't get a lot." He points out that while in Emilia-Romagna, Lambrusco and charcuterie are paired generally, in broad strokes that don't really account for the style of each, The Partisan gives he and Anda the chance to "geek out," coaxing out symbiotic nuances in the glass and on the platter. The Partisan, Washington, D.C. received," he says. "I wanted to show respect to a beverage that doesn't get a lot." He points out that while in Emilia-Romagna, Lambrusco and charcuterie are paired generally, in broad Inventive house-made charcuterie scrubbed away with dry Lambrusco gives guests a lot to chew on at this t's the 8:30 p.m. in the middle of the restaurant's wildly popu lar second-annual Lambrusco Week, and Wine Director Brent Kroll is working the floor, fielding questions and pouring tastes of Emilia-Romagna's fizzy native juice. During seven days in August, carnivo rous oenophiles at the 100-seat restaurant The Partisan can order three, six, or ten, three-ounce pours of the crimson bubbly, each uniquely paired with charcuterie made-in-house at the adjacent Red Apron Butchery by Chefs Nathan This isn't the treacly, cloying red sparkling jug wine that gave Lambrusco a bad rap, though. Modern versions are unbelievably food friendly options to start off the night—or to sip all evening with everything from pâté to pork belly—and Kroll is championing the cause. "What is inspiring me right now is the response that Lambrusco has Inventive house-made charcuterie scrubbed away with dry Lambrusco gives guests a lot to chew on at this - lar second-annual Lambrusco Week, and Wine Director Brent Kroll is working the floor, fielding questions and pouring tastes of Emilia-Romagna's fizzy native juice. During seven days in August, carnivo- rous oenophiles at the 100-seat restaurant The Partisan can order three, six, or ten, three-ounce pours of the crimson bubbly, each uniquely paired with charcuterie made-in-house at the adjacent Red Apron Butchery by Chefs Nathan This isn't the treacly, cloying red sparkling jug wine that gave Lambrusco a bad rap, though. Modern versions are unbelievably food friendly options to start off the night—or to sip all evening with everything from pâté to pork belly—and Kroll is championing the cause. "What is inspiring me right now is the response that Lambrusco has f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 1 5 | 3 3 Dark and succulent mescal-braised lamb ribs with charred corn grits and salad burnet.

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