Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/552044
96 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015 WE'VE COME A LONG WAY SINCE THE mid-last-century manifestation of Chianti, in the rounded, straw-covered fiasco. But sometimes you have to go old-school to create a renaissance, and that is exactly what three persistent properties are doing in the middle of Chianti Classico. DIEVOLE: The Interventionist With a name that means "God willing" in Medieval Latin, Dievole has certainly earned its place in Tuscan history. Situated in the heart of the Chianti Classico DOCG, on the border between the territories of Siena and Florence, Dievole landed in the public records for the first time on May 10, 1090. Almost a thousand years later, and under new ownership and direction, Dievole has embarked upon a renaissance of sorts, with the goal in mind of producing the archetype of Chianti Classico. In November 2012, Alejandro Bulgheroni purchased the historic property and vineyards of Dievole, appointing Enrique Almagro as President of the winery and Alberto Antonini to over- see the property and winemaking. "The first change was to remove the bar- riques and tonneaux in favor of large format, 40hl French oak casks, non-toasted and originating from the Allier forest," recounts Almagro. In the mid-1990s, small format oak and international varieties had infiltrated Chianti Classico and wreaked havoc on the identity of the region. Almagro thought an intervention was called for. Through these changes in the cellar, Dievole's winemaker Alberto Antonini, is aiming for "a slow micro-oxygenation that allows the wine to evolve at its own pace, reaching its full maturity while keeping intact all its freshness, harmony and balance." Step two of Dievole's conversion back to the basics entailed replanting much of their 80 hectares (198 acres) of vines back to Sangiovese, effectively eliminating interna- tional varieties from the property. PODERE IL PALAZZINO: The Keepers of the Land Situated 20 kilometers north of Siena, Podere Il Palazzino has been melding its traditional style with an organic approach since 1973. Run by the dynamic team of brothers, Alessandro and Andrea Sderci, their 20 hectares (49 acres) are planted almost entirely to Sangiovese, with just a small amount of indigenous varieties. "Our job is to make Chianti Classico," notes Allesandro Sderci. "There has been a return to a Chianti which is increasingly linked to the indigenous grape varieties. The indigenous varieties resist the Tuscan climate better and ensure a better product. Sangiovese is ideal, but also Canaiolo, which had been a bit left out. There is a bit of a return to the original recipe of Chianti." As far as revolutions go, Sderci notes, "The most important change in the Chianti Classico has been the orientation towards organic viticulture. According to me this results into a great increase in quality. This is an aspect that is being constantly devel- oped. The improvement of products we [consume—food, wine, etc.] also results in an improvement of the way of life." MONTEROTONDO: The Steadfast Located just a few clicks away in Gaiole, in the heart of Chianti, is Monterotondo. Though the homestead dates back to 1056, the winery was established in 1959 by Saverio Basagni's grandfather. Basagini— who currently owns the property, manages the vineyards and makes the wines, with his wife Fabiana—takes a minimalist approach to production of his Chianti Classico. Focus at the property is on health and sustainabil- ity of the vineyard (grown organically since 2003), and a super hands-off approach in the cellar, particularly as it pertains to oak (only Slavonian oak barrels and casks are used, none smaller than 5 hectoliters). The result is a truly classic Chianti Classico. Going Back to DIEVOLE, MONTEROTONDO AND PODERE IL PALAZZINO SEEK TO REVITALIZE CHIANTI CLASSICO Dievole has removed the barriques and tonneaux from its cellar in favor of large format, 40hl French oak casks. Podere Il Palazzino has been melding its traditional style with an organic approach since 1973. PRESS FORWARD by Karen Moneymaker / winery photos courtesy of Marc De Grazia Selections