Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/552044
86 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015 86 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015 86 { THE SOMM JOURNAL } AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015 C hardonnay has been America's longest and most dramatic love affair with a single grape since varietal wines became popular in the 1960s. The grape's dramatic success in the U.S. made it fashionable for sommeliers to criticize Chardonnay and ultimately inspired a movement called ABC (Anything but Chardonnay). Chardonnay has survived this movement with aplomb, while continuing to lead all domestic wine sales categories. I have to confess, I jumped on the ABC bandwagon early on, mainly out of the excitement and the novelty of California's exploration and success with other white grape varieties. I'm proud to say that I have now come back home to Chardonnay. Why? It's because of food! What I consider one of Chardonnay's biggest faults, its ability to be shaped by winemakers in so many ways, ironically makes this grape an incredibly versatile performer with a wide range of food. At the International Chardonnay Symposium, the versatility of Chardonnay with food was on full display. The "Diversity in Balance—Pairing Chardonnay with Food" panel discussion and luncheon that I moderated featured five excellent Chardonnays from around the world paired with a three-course menu. Perhaps the big- gest bonus of this food and wine pairing experience was the variety of production methods and unique terroir these wines demonstrated paired with the creative menu designed by Chef Vatche Moukhtarian of Cracked Pepper Bistro in Fresno, California. The first course, a cobia ceviche with avocado-tomatillo salsa, presented several wine pairing challenges, mainly high acidity and a strong spice component. The Caldora "Terre di Chieti" Chardonnay from Abruzzo, with its lower alcohol, bright acidity and absence of oak, deftly handled those challenges and allowed the cobia (aka lemonfish) to shine. Coming Back Home to Chardonnay by Robert Bath, MS "Chardonnay is the most international varietal," said Steven Checca, from the Farnese group. He tasted us on Caldora Terre di Chieti Chardonnay from Abruzzo, with vineyards off the Adriatic Sea on Italy's eastern coast. The wine tasted fresh and clean, with hints of lemon-lime zest. No ML and subtle use of American and Slovenian thousand-liter oak barrels showcased a ripeness with a hint of salinity. The sous-vide–prepared salmon with fennel pollen required a wine to stand up to its assertive flavors. With the Edna Valley as a backdrop (specifically, Chardonnay vineyards at Edna Valley Vineyards), the "Diversity in Balance—Pairing Chardonnay with Food" panelists Steve Rogstad, winemaker for Cuvaison; Mark Davidson, educator for Wine Australia; moderator & CIA wine educator Robert Bath, MS; Kathy Marlin, Managing Director for Negociants USA; and Steven Checca of Italy's Farnese Group.