Issue link: http://digital.copcomm.com/i/552044
{ SOMMjournal.com } 63 Colli Aprutini IGT is grown on clay and sand soils and exclusively fermented in stainless steel prior to ML. It is aged on its lees for five months prior to bottling. SEA: Vermentino Vermentino is a grape variety almost exclusive to Italy, grown in Sardinia, Liguria and on the Tuscan coast. The latter is the source for the Banfi La Pettegola Vermentino. Rudy Buratti, Chief Winemaker for Castello Banfi, he refers to Vermentino as "a sea-loving varietal," and indeed La Pettegola means "seagull" in Italian. "Salty, with honeydew and white peach notes, the crystal clean palate reflects the sea breezes," he points out. The vineyards run from the beachside to the sandy, clay hillsides. If it reminds you of a Sauvignon Blanc, Buratti notes, it is because the two varieties are genetically related. HILLS: Albarossa From Monferrato in the hills of southeastern Piedmont, the Albarossa grape is a hybrid of Barbera and Nebbiolo created in 1938. In 2001, four wineries—among the most important in Piedmont, including Banfi Piemonte—decided to invest in and research this unique grape variety. In 2006, the first vintage of Albarossa was vinified. The Banfi Piemonte La Lus Albarossa matures in French oak barrels for 12 months followed by an additional eight in the bottle. The 2011 La Lus (the name means "the light" or "the new dawn") expresses fruity, lively violet notes and plummets into deep, expres - sive tar, plum and chocolate notes with sinewy coffee tannins. SEASIDE & STEEP HILLS: Faro A small estate winery in northeastern Sicily, Palari sits almost 2,000 feet above sea level in the Faro DOC. In hot climates, the altitude offers a diurnal shift in temperatures as does the proximity to the sea. Winemaker and family proprietor Salvatore Geraci tends head-trained vines, allowing the vines to root deep on its steep, stony soils. Faro, which means a lighthouse, is one of the smallest DOCs in Italy. "This is also con - sidered a 'rescue' wine," said Geraci. The grapes used for Palari 2009 Faro DOC are a century-old blend of Nerello Mascalese, Nocero and Nerello Cappuccio. The wine, from small concentrated berries, is immediately dry and dusty (minerals from the dark black, rich volcanic Etna soils), with salinity, iodine, wet earth and leather components. Terroir vs. Technique "Technique is more impactful to me than terroir," says Nicolas Quille, Winemaking Director for Washington State's Pacific Rim. "Technique helps impart more flavor," the native of Lyon explained; "[it] reveals, expresses and differentiates a certain region." While it's dry in the east - ern region of Washington where his 12 different types of Riesling grapes grow, he controls irrigation to further concentrate fruit for lower vigor and higher aromatics. Planting rootstock, canopy management and density planting are further tech - niques that assist the terroir component. "We ferment in 100% stainless steel with cultured yeast and no ML," he added. "That's where much of the aro- mas become pronounced." Kris Messia, Oskar Chinchilla and Brian Smith, all somms at Downtown L.A.'s The Palm Restaurant, came together to the event. Following the biodynamic seminar, Messiah commented, "Organic wines are playing a huge role in what we're doing at The Palm. A lot of people are asking more about biodynamic wines, so this is great information to share." (left to right) Lars Leicht, National Director of Cru Artisan Wines; Andrea Sartori, family proprietor of Sartori di Verona; Rudy Buratti, Chief Winemaker at Castello Banfi; and Salvatore Geraci, proprietor of Palari in Sicily. Rick Arline, Sommelier at Capital Grille in Costa Mesa, CA, called the opportunity to hear from so many world winemakers in one place "incredible. This is such a treat," he continued, "getting to taste with these winemakers in my own backyard."