The SOMM Journal

August / September 2015

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{ SOMMjournal.com }  41 The Modern Wine List "In my world, a simple, good wine list is one that has 100 Rieslings and no other wines," is how Paul Grieco, General Manager of New York wine bar Terroir, would characterize an ideal, modern wine list. Grieco was the self-appointed voice of radicalism among this group of his contemporaries, and while everyone was amused by his often extreme points, others expressed opposite views with similar passion. In the end, the group agreed that the need to please the guest was a top priority. Lulu McAllister (CIA class of 2014), Wine Director of San Francisco restaurants Nopa and Liholiho Yacht Club, said, "You do need diversity and a range of price points. Go ahead have all Chardonnays—or Rieslings—but have a wide range of Chardonnays or Rieslings." Here are highlights from each panelist's perspective: Paul Grieco, General Manager, Terroir, New York City: "My measure of your success is what you do internally, in the back of the house. Are your spreadsheets accurate and properly maintained so that there are no 86's during service?" Christopher Gaither, Wine Director, Restaurant Gary Danko, San Francisco: "I do have my own way of making [my wine list] a little less user- friendly, so I can incorporate some user-friendliness into it, by inserting myself into the conversation." Tony Cha, Co-Founder, Binwise, Inc.: "A lot of restaurants aren't into selling expensive wines and are focused on 'affordable'—but you are missing out and you have to think about who your audience is." Lulu McAllister, Wine Director, Nopa and Liholiho Yacht Club, San Francisco: "At Liholiho Yacht Club we employ a lot of impres - sionism and decided to break the list into Old Friends and New Friends. Sometimes you want an adventure (New Friends), but sometimes you want your old go-to's, and at the end of the day, it does spark conversation, which is the point." The Vintner's Hall of Fame ceremony kicked off the three- day event. Left to right: Anthony Chavez, grandson of famed vineyard worker activist Cesar Chavez; Robert M. Parker Jr.; Tony Terlato, Chairman, Terlato Wine Group; Christine Chavez, granddaughter of Cesar Chavez, Farmworker Coordinator United States Department Agriculture; and Merry Edwards, owner and winemaker, Merry Edwards Winery (sitting). Mark Erickson, CMC, Provost, The Culinary Institute of America; Robert Bath, MS, Professor, Wine and Beverage Studies, The CIA at Greystone; and Thomas Bensel, Managing Director, The CIA at Greystone. Bob Bath, MS, with legendary wine educator and author Kevin Zraly.

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